1994 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues
I have a 1994 chevrolet c1500 truck ,how can i close the gap between the door and fender on passenger side ,i have tried to adjust fender by loosening bolts and shifting fender towards door but fender
The problem here is that when you move one thing evrything else has to move too. You can loosen the rad support which will let you pull the fender closer but then the driver's side fender is going to be closer and the hood is going to be closer. Normally there are shims at various locations on the fender, so I would look for those first. Check the bolts holding the fender to the firewall and see if there are any shims behind them pushing the fender out. These can be removed and reinserted between the fender and the rad support. This way the hood and the rest of the front end will stay in place. There is some play in the hood hinges. so you could repostion them a little if you moved the fender. This would likely result in having to move the hood latch some as well but it will move.The bigger question is why do you have to do it in the first place. If it's the result of an accident, then perhaps you should just live with it. very rarely does everything go exactly back into place. Quite often close enough has to do unless you want to spend exorbident amounts of money. It's possible that the cab has been rearranged on the frame, either from an accident or changing cab mounts.If this is the case, then the best thing to do is loosen the cab mounts and reposition the cab to fill the gap. You'd never see 1/8" between a cab and the box so maybe measure and see what you have. Do the same under the truck at all four corners of the cab. Reposition it as necessary. This may be the best prospect unless there is a lot of extra room in the front clip to start moving everything around. Hope this helps.
WILL A 93 S10 4L60E FIT A 97 Z71
There were changes made to that transmission in 1994 so the answer would be no. It is also my understnding that both were used in 94 so you have to be careful there as well. If I remember correctly there should be a letter or maybe number cast into the case where the torque converter fits.I think you will find it at about the 10 o'clock position. If your trans has it you have to put that style back in. If it doesn't you can't use it. Hope this helps.
HOW DO I REPLACE CAB MOUNT BUSHINGS
Cab mount bushings are a royal pain. From experience ypu may as well get new bolts and some nuts to fit while you are ordering the bushings. Also get new plates that mount against the bushings. It's not very common for any of these parts to be reusable. The front mount bolts may come out with a socket and strong arm but make sure you are using a 1/2" drive socket not the common 3/8. I believe the socket is 19mm. If the bolts break or won't unscrew you will have to cut a hole in the floor to get at the welded nut. There are 2 layers in the floor where the cab mounts are located. Measure from 2 access points to get an approximate location for the hole.You can almost guarantee that you will have to cut holes in the floor to get the rear ones out. You will also have to remove the seat to get enough room to work on them.Once you have to old ones out a small hydraulic jack and a block of wood will lift the cab enough to take the old mount out and install the new one. Use the block to support the cab when you jack so you don't dent the floor. Do them in pairs so the cab doesn't end up crooked on the frame. You can expect this to be an all day job. Hope this helps.
Does the engine have to be pulled to replace the
its a tight fit but you can go in between the motor & firewall without pulling the motor. if that dosnt work it takes half the time to pull the transmition and bell housing , get it out of your way and your home free
There's too much play in the steering wheel of my
play in the steering wheel for that truck is more than likely caused by worn tie rod ends, and sometimes ball joints. The steering box is least likely to give you problems, unless it had bolts come loose. Check out the tie rod ends first; with the vehicle off, have someone else turn the steering wheel from left to right within that free zone, and look at the joints in the steering linkage. If you see one half of the joint moving more than the other half, you know it need replaced. If you have more questions, or if you need more help, feel free to post a comment, and I'll check up on it so you aren't left hanging.
1994 c1500 5.7 engine cuts
have you changed fuel and air filter recently? plugs? ohmed out your plug wires? all these will cause problems like you are having and they are fairly cheap at your local auto parts. it is a chained engine but if possible check that if all else fails
Where is the transmission control
The TCM is part of the ECM (electronic control module) and is not a separate module. The ECM is located behind and to the right of the glove box, you will need to remove the glove box liner to gain access to it. It has a large 60 wire connector going to it.
Clicking noise under gas pedal
Hi, if you feel the click in the gas pedal it is the throttle cable not seated in the pully that opens the TB. The stopper will work itself loose if the cable is old or if you tamper with the TB pully. (i.e. reving engine by hand at TB under the hood.) Check cable at TB and be sure to pull it tight so the lead stopper on the cable is secure and seated. Not seated will cause the cable to wander in the pully. If the throttle feels sticky or clicks clean the TB with some gumout.
My 1994 chev 6,5 stops and wont start fdor awile
check fuel pump (supply) pressure if in spec
check all fues
if all checks out fuel pump driver module could be suspected
black box mounted to side of injection pump with wire conector pluged in
dorman has a revised driver module usually better then sanadyne drivers
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