1993 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Something is stuck in it, coin, candy etc. Must disassemble to repair.

That would be red or yellow

It should be in the front cab

This truck is fuel injected, the problem sounds like a weak fuelpump, it runs when you pour gas into it until that gas runs out, the first thing is to test the fuel preasure, if the pump is weak it may run with gas poured into it but wont idle, also a common problem is the coolant temp sensor and the ground wires to thermostat housing bolt but i wont bet its the pump inside the fuel tank, if you put a fuel gauge on it there should be at least 55-61 psi if its a few pounds lower it can cause problems, you have everything else and it runs with gas poured so its a fuel problem check the preasure, theres a valve up top on the fuel line to connect a fuel gauge to it, start there hope this is helpful.

Confused as to why you are replacing things that crank the engine over, like the starter, and things that are just for fuel, like the pump?

Can't tell if it is cranking over or just not firing?

But if it is not cranking, then consider the ignition switch, neutral safety switch, engine ground strap, and battery terminals.

If you think it is not getting fuel, then try some starting fluid, to make sure it does spark at least.

If it does have spark and cranks, then you should put a gauge on the fuel rail. If there is no pressure when you try to start, then check voltage at the pump with a test light.
If none, then follow back to relay.
If none there, then try jumping at the relay, just for testing.
If that works, then it could be safety cutout system.
Some vehicles use an inertial switch, some use oil pressure switch, some use alternator feedback.

Sounds like it still has air in the lines. Somewhere. It isn't leaking is it? Do they work if you pump em? Does it get hard after a couple times then you can hold it and it does not leak all the way to the floor? Then I would say it has air in line, or lines. Or in the master cylinder. Why was you bleeding them in the first place? Did you change something?

Even if the fluid just looks milky, that is small air bubbles evenly in it. I use a shop vac to bleed mine. Take the cover to the master cylinder off. Start at the back right. Loosen the bleeder and hold the vacuum on it until it sucks clean new fluid. Close it and open it several times until the fluid flows freely from it. Keep a close eye on the master cylinder so it don't run out. Go through all of them RR LR RF LF Then fill the resicvor up and pump the pedal a couple times with motor off. It should be tight then. If not, go over them again.

It will bleed the master cylinder and all. I hope this helps.

Remove the actuator and with it out and still connected engage the 4wd and see if the actuator is extending.If it is then check to see if you have a problem with the front differential.If it does not then you have to check and make sure you hooked the wires up correctly.The brown wire has to connect to the brown wire on the switch on the top of the transfer case.Hope this helps.Good luck.

• GO TO NAPA AND BUY A SENSOR CAPTEUR PART # VSS220 ITS AN THROTTLE MODULE SENSOR, SAME PROBLEM HAPPENED TO ME HOPE IT SOLVES YOUR PROBLEM

There is a wire on the alternator that sends a signal to turn on. (sometimes brown in color) Check all wires on alternator while engine iswrunning for current. All should have power going through them. If one is lacking then check your alternator signal fuse, Located in the power distribution box under the hood. If fuse is good go inside and make sure all fuses inside are good. Sometimes the guages fuse or other important systems will shut doen the charging system when that system is inoperable.

Pressure control solenoid? On the transmission itself. If I remember correctly, there is a cap you will need to remove it, wow, that was a long time ago. and a large snap ring that holds it in place. You may find a manual will help with locating it, also your local dealer, the parts department is where you would buy the part, can print you an exploded diagram of part and locaton.

Hope this helps you.

It sounds like its related the the wheel it could be a brake caliper thats sticking sometimes Iwould pull the tire off and check to see what kind of shape the rotor and pads are in look for one of the pads to be likely the inside one to be much thinner then the outter one the ware limit is around 80-100-ths of an inch

4 1/2 to 5, including the filter. Pour in 4, start the motor and run for a minute or two, shut off and recheck oil. Add as needed.

Hello Denny.

The sender is to the right of the distributor threaded into the rear of the engine block.
Look to the right of the distributor as you are looking at it from under the hood.

There you are.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

You should check the electrical system at this point Get the rubber gloves out pull the wire off the distributor cap for the coil hold the wire close to the hole that it was pluged into have someone try to start the vehicle you should get a spark if you do then take out one of the spark plugs plug the wire back on the plug and touch it to the engine block and have to other person try to start the engine again you should see a spark again If you get no spark at the coil test it cuuld be a bad coil or the electronic ignition module witch is the most likly cause of your problem But if its sparks at the coil and not at the plug then eletronic ignition is likely good and the high votlage side of the coil is the problem hope this helps

1993 Chevrolet Truck C1500 the Engine Control Computer is located: Front seating area, passenger side, behind dash, above blower motor, mounted on firewall

Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this).

The MAP is there to provide air pressure values from the inlet manifold to the engine control unit which in turn alters the pulse width of the fuel injection cycles. When the engine is at idle the throttle is closed and this creates vacuum conditions in the inlet plenum and as a result the voltage signal from the MAP should rise. Generally the MAP has 3 pins in the connecting socket, one pin is the 'reference' (usually 5 volts), the second pin is 'ground' and the third pin (usually the middle) is 'signal' voltage. At normal air pressure the MAP signal is about 1 volt. When vacuum is applied (idle throttle condition) the output signal rises by about 1 volt for every 5 inches of mercury pressure difference. At idle the voltage output will be high (4 volts) and the ECU responds by setting very short injection cycles. From what you have said is that the MAP at normal air pressure (as would be encountered when the throttle is open) is allowing the engine to idle just so long as no un-metered air gets in via the disconnected vacuum line. As soon as air enters the line the engine stalls. The stalling could be either due to too much air getting in making the air/fuel mix too lean or due to the loss of vacuum the fuel pressure regulator, creating higher fuel pressure in the fuel rail and therefore causing too much fuel to be injected per injection cycle. Check out the voltage signal from the MAP when applying a hand vacuum to it. Check the connector for dirt or corrosion. Check out the wiring from the connector back to the ECU for continuity.

This is the most illistrated one i coud find for you hope you back on the road soon!

Hi!!
You need to hook up the sensor back. If you follow the wiring harness for the other sensors, there should be one wire with a little round plug that goes into the sensor. Once connected, clear the codes and if it comes back, replace the sensor. This is what the knock sensor does:

• Knock sensors measure engine vibration caused by pre-ignition.
• When not replaced, vehicle may experience engine ping or knock, high emissions, poor fuel economy, internal engine damage and/or CEL/MIL illumination.

knock sensor is letter J which is the first round figure on the top left right after the square. Good Luck!!