1993 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 5 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The rear end seal.first block the wheels,so truck does not roll away.remove drive shaft four bolts to do this.might have to a pry bar to seperate .then take a center punch and make a mark on the nut.then mark the yoke.with a mark.this is done,so when its put back together,you dont over tightn the crush spacer.then remove the yoke.have a pan under neath to catch any rear end oil.remove yoke,then remove seal.reinstall seal,and reverse the process.hope this helped brad

on the 1993 the MAP sensor is also the BARO sensor ( MAP/BARO) when you turn the key on the computer looks at the MAP/BARO sensor to get a reading of the barometric pressure that way it knows at what altuide the truck is at so it can asjust the fuel mixture for start up, then after the computer sees engine rpm it checks the MAP sensor ( manafold absulate pressure) basicly engine vacuum the higer the vaccum the less load is on the engine the lower the vacuum the higher the load and again it uses this info to adjust the fuel mixture, now with all that said when the engine is off and you unhook the vacuum hose is there vacuum being held in the hose? some of these older trucks had a vacuum filter in the line that would get pluged and start working like a check valve and hold vacuum on the sensor if this happens then the computer is not geatting a correct BARO reading when you turn on the key, also have you replace the sensor yet? and lastly have you hooked a scanner up yet to check the computer data when trying to start the engine? it would be of great help if i know what the BARO reading is and the MAP reading when trying to start the engine also cranking RPM and injection dwell and spark advance during cranking would also be very helpful......check these few things and get back with me and i will try to help you get to the bottom of this little problem.

4.3 have problems with the distributor gear. Worth pulling out and checking

Yes, it will fit. But it won't work due to the electronics. Best Wishes TJ

of course it will this is normal ,so long as it doesnt drop below about 12lbs on idle leave well alone or stick a can of STP into the engine oil this will hold the pressure up a bit

Hi! bigdowgi
Transmission is tide into the speed sencor somehow. I will have to look up some specs and get back with you. check your fuses in the mean time. Hope you at least have a test light. You may be able to do some test yourself, with a voltmeter. Hopefully you have checked the transmission for ATF fluid.
Some time it can be somthing real simple.
InMrFixIt

either behind the seat or in the motor section under the hood on the fender wall

your first problem is that you ordered the wrong transmission. in the late 80's chevy switched from the 700r4 to the 4L60E. all the electronics for the 4L60E was changed. the only way you can run the 700R4 is if you put a completely different ECU (computer) in the truck. I recomend you see if you can trade the transmission in for the correct one or you will be going through alot of headaches trying to get another computer and complete wiring harness for the truck.

TRY THE FUEL FILTER FIRST IF THE FUEL PUMP WAS GOING BAD IT WOULD STALL AS YOU PUSH ON THE GAS PEDDLE AND PUMPING THE PEDDLE WOULD NOT HELP FUEL INJECTION AND PUMPING THE GAS WILL HAVE NO EFFECT ON THE RUNNING OF THE VEHICAL

Check the part number on both clusters. If they're the same, then they should interchange. The part numbers might have a 3 or a 4 in them to denote the year. If they look identical and all of the connections are the same, then it should work.

I would recommend that you check the ignition fuse, and the starter relay. You will also want to make sure that the ground for the starter is secure.

make sure that when you replaced the power brake booster, you have the rod that runs from the booster hooked up right, and not in a bind.

One other thing you should check judging it being a 1993. Check the fuel pump pressure for adequate fuel supply to all those new components. If you don't get the correct pressure you will experience back firing and inconsistency in your engine performance.

Please replace your COIL with new one.
Regards, Jay

Start with the easy part. Are the heater hoses in good condition ? If there is nothing leaking from a hose can you possibly see if it is coming from the back of the engine? Could be several things maybe intake manifold gasket leaking, hopefully nothing as serious as a head gasket leaking externally, any check the easy stuff like the coolant temp switch and hoses etc. Good luck

A joke right?

Have you replaced the fuel filter? Suggest you check the running fuel pressure and also check the fuel pressure regulator function.

There should be a sticker or placard on the driver's door jamb that has the tire size and inflation pressures.

MAYBE THE ALTERNATOR QUIT CHARGING. DOES THE STARTER WORK? IS THE SERPENTINE BELT THAT DRIVES EVERYTHING STILL IN PLACE?. MEASURE THE VOLTAGE AT THE BATTERY. IF IT IS 12.60 VOLTS IT'S PROBABLY OK. 10 VOLTS IS TOO LOW.
IF THE VOLTAGE IS OK CHECK THE FUSES IN THE FUSE/RELAY BOX UNDER THE HOOD.

Try this solution, it fixes 90% of this type of problem.

To correct this problem I want you to get a can of intake cleaner (ABOUT $5.00) from any local auto parts store like NAPA or Carquest, do not use carburetor spray, intake cleaner only or u will damage the Teflon coating inside the throttle valve and air bypass valve, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.