1993 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The Engine and Automatic Transmission (not applicable to manual transmissions) in this vehicles drive train are fully electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM and TCM (Power Train Control Module, Transmission Control Module). When a problem like this or other drive-ability related problems occurs the computer stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPENDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM. Also always check fuel pressure for correct spec for your make and engine type.

honesty no idea without a good look please ask a local mechanic to have a look

Does this vehicle have 4 wheel antilock brakes?

Your ecu is most likely the problem if it is bad it wont send power to the fuel pump. You can check it by turning on the ignition then listen for noise coming from fuel tank. You should be able to hear the fuel pump come on.

A mechanic would check for power at the motor and at the resistor.Also check the motor ground circuit for a loose connection.You can look the resistor up at the online auto parts stores to see what it looks like.

If you have no reverse, it has to come out & come apart again

You have a bad TPS switch on the throttle boy carburetor, it records to the PCM where your throttle is to calculate fuel delivery, its cheap and easy to change, a 3 wire TPS sensor, good luck

Engine problem may be bad fuel pump or clogged fuel pump filter, Park issue check linkage adjustment unless you got it parked in such a way that the frame is twisted? try rolling it back a little then stop and put in park see if that works.

We do not have any cross reference books. Call any salvage yard that handles GM, they can tell you the years that will fit.

get your tank replaced or check the lines see if there leaking, if not will have more problems in future

Fault Code 15SynopsisDescription: No speed/distance sensor signal Power loss light: Off Limp-in mode: None Possible CausesBad connector or wiring - Check the connector at the sensor and on the wiring harness near the fuel rail for corroded contacts or broken or melted wires. Check the wiring for continuity.Speed/distance sensor failure - If you have a 1992 or earlier transmission, these sensors are prone to failure. See the Hall Effect Speed/Distance Sensor Conversion page to see if you can repair this problem once and for all. The sensor is located on the transmission on top of the long casting where the right axle connects. Diagnostic MethodTrigger Parameters- Throttle has been closed for 7 seconds - Engine speed 768 rpm above target idle speed - Speed sensor not producing a signalResults If Component FailsFault code 15 is stored, but there is no "limp-in" mode for this fault code and the power loss light does not turn on. Any pulses from the sensor are considered valid. Fault Code 54SynopsisDescription: No fuel injector sync pickup signal during engine rotation Power loss light: On Limp-in mode: Logic module will guess at injector timing Possible Causes:Bad connection or wiring - Check the wiring and connections between the hall effect sensor (located underneath the distributer cap) and the logic module. Check the continuity of the two 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor--these are prone to fatiguing and breaking inside the insulation where they exit the sensor if the cables are not properly tied down. You may be able to resolder them. Clean and regrease any corroded connectors with dielectric grease and repair any shorts.Hall effect sensor failure - Check the two, flat 3 conductor cables coming out of the sensor. These often fatigue where they exit from the sensor. Upon replacing the sensor, make sure the cables are clipped or tied to the distributor cap shroud (or elsewhere) so they do not swing around. Diagnostic MethodTrigger Parameters- Engine cranking or running (signal coming from ignition reference sensor) - No signal from the fuel injector sync pickup sensorResults If Component FailsFault code 54 is stored. The engine will stall and will not start.Hope helps.

its right on the fire wall in the engine compartment. un bolt and unhook wires. its pretty stait forward

You must properly diagnose your ignition system to find the cause of the "no-spark". There are several steps involved depending on where the problem is. It could be anything from a bad distributor cap to a failed ignition control module.

try changing your module on your distibuter

code 12 indicates that your in diagnostic mode

CODE 12 NO ENGINE RPM REFERENCE PULSE SYSTEM NORMAL POSSIBLE CAUSE BAD IGNITION COIL OR BAD IGNITION MODULE IF ENGINE NOT CRANKING GETTING NO SPARK ALSO CHECK IGNITION FUSE MAKE SURE IGNITION COIL GETTING POWER.

check your air to fuel ratio

Check your lines going to the brakes the rubber hose on the 1993 chevy have a tendancy to crack and brake are you using an excess of brake fluid

what is it doing and did you get it figured out

what color is the inside of the trans connector on the trans itself? I believe the 93/94s were a tan yellowish color. 1995 and up are different and won't work - electronics are different

If they have exactly the same amount of solenoids, you could switch the harnesses.... but it sounds like you have a 95 or newer trans which would have one more solenoid