1993 Chevrolet C1500 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

cable damage/corrosion-fuse/relay failure -ignition failure--electrical short somewhere---need a milti-meter to check the system since their are to many reasons for something to go wrong or fail

that sounds like a earthing fault , check the wiring from the lights for signs of breaks etc, and trace earth back to chassis connection to ensure a good earth

check for a bent linkage its probably not engaging properly

Distributor rotor inside check that if it's a v6 then check ignition cool that connects to distributor more need replacement.

Check the throttle position sensor (TPS) and system vacuum.

Ok first question. Did you install an AC Delco fuel pump? If not, change the pump. Other pumps do not maintain the pressure that is required by the system. You say you have installed a new disturber, insure you are time installed correctly. Rough running usually is a vacuum leak, usually you can find it by spraying cab. cleaner around the intake manifold and components. Hope it helps

Did you bench bleed the MC before installing it? If not, that's the problem. MUST be bench bled or you'll always have air. If brakes lights are on, the brake switch is out of adjustment OR (since you replaced the MC), the push rod is out of adjustment

Have the tranny fluid changed. may want to change the filter at the same time.

If it has a Mass Airflow sensor unplug it and see how it runs. If it smoothes out that is the problem. I would also check for vacuum leaks the base of the throttle body is suspect, usually bad gasket

The coil may be starting to fail.

Before starting the engine, the fuel pump should only run for a few seconds when the key is first turned, to pressurize the fuel system. Even though the pump appears to be running, you may either have not enough or too much pressure for the engine to keep running (fuel pump or pressure regulator). I think it may just be a coincidence the engine quit while turning a corner, but the gas in your tank may have been so low it sloshed away from what is likely a very old pump, starving it and causing it to failure.

check for vacuum leaks and see if lock up torque converter is an issue for stalling also at idle

check the cable first. It connects into the driver side rear of the transmission tail. Remove the cable from the transmission...you shoud see a short section that was farther into the trans, and that piece will go into a small plastic gear. check those for damage. the end of the cable should spin freely with fingers. if not spinning, broken off, or the plastic gear is damaged, it's a pretty easy fix.

Sounds like a faulty rebuild job

Back to old school.... Find 1st cylinder.. Remove the plug and bring it to TDC Check your timing belt.. for TDC

if your old one had them you should reuse the old ones , when you go to start car lission for a grinding noise or starter gear getting hung up , if its grinding take out shims one at a time till it sounds good ,if its hanging up add shims till you hear it releasing cleanly ,if you need shims most part stores sell them in packs of 4

there is no drain plug. you must undo all the bolts holding the pan in place. After the first few bolts the fluid will start leaking out so have a drainpan under it

Check the water control valve . It most likely isn't letting coolant into the core.

Hi Carl, This sounds like bearing issues in the transmission. Your description sounds like counter shaft. 4th gear is straight through, so likely some less noisy. SO, you could go through the trans, but this gets cost prohibitive real fast. Only takes one gear and then another then too much cost. If you are not capable in rebuilding the trans, consider a used transmission. Much less cost, but some risk if the trans is not good... Doc

Leave the pulley on & loosen the pump