20 Most Recent 1993 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

4 1/2 to 5, including the filter. Pour in 4, start the motor and run for a minute or two, shut off and recheck oil. Add as needed.

Hello Denny.

The sender is to the right of the distributor threaded into the rear of the engine block.
Look to the right of the distributor as you are looking at it from under the hood.

There you are.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

You should check the electrical system at this point Get the rubber gloves out pull the wire off the distributor cap for the coil hold the wire close to the hole that it was pluged into have someone try to start the vehicle you should get a spark if you do then take out one of the spark plugs plug the wire back on the plug and touch it to the engine block and have to other person try to start the engine again you should see a spark again If you get no spark at the coil test it cuuld be a bad coil or the electronic ignition module witch is the most likly cause of your problem But if its sparks at the coil and not at the plug then eletronic ignition is likely good and the high votlage side of the coil is the problem hope this helps

1993 Chevrolet Truck C1500 the Engine Control Computer is located: Front seating area, passenger side, behind dash, above blower motor, mounted on firewall

Hope helps (remember to rate and comment this).

The MAP is there to provide air pressure values from the inlet manifold to the engine control unit which in turn alters the pulse width of the fuel injection cycles. When the engine is at idle the throttle is closed and this creates vacuum conditions in the inlet plenum and as a result the voltage signal from the MAP should rise. Generally the MAP has 3 pins in the connecting socket, one pin is the 'reference' (usually 5 volts), the second pin is 'ground' and the third pin (usually the middle) is 'signal' voltage. At normal air pressure the MAP signal is about 1 volt. When vacuum is applied (idle throttle condition) the output signal rises by about 1 volt for every 5 inches of mercury pressure difference. At idle the voltage output will be high (4 volts) and the ECU responds by setting very short injection cycles. From what you have said is that the MAP at normal air pressure (as would be encountered when the throttle is open) is allowing the engine to idle just so long as no un-metered air gets in via the disconnected vacuum line. As soon as air enters the line the engine stalls. The stalling could be either due to too much air getting in making the air/fuel mix too lean or due to the loss of vacuum the fuel pressure regulator, creating higher fuel pressure in the fuel rail and therefore causing too much fuel to be injected per injection cycle. Check out the voltage signal from the MAP when applying a hand vacuum to it. Check the connector for dirt or corrosion. Check out the wiring from the connector back to the ECU for continuity.

This is the most illistrated one i coud find for you hope you back on the road soon!

Check the ignition switch located under the dash on the steering column. Listen if you here a click from that location when you first turn the key on - if no click then replace the switch.

clogged fuel filter on faulty fuel pump replace fuel filter and recheck

I say band adjustment in transmission, have done by shop. might be just a vacuum hose or modulator, but I don't think so

The first thing is to make sure you are getting fuel to throttlebody see if it sprays,this year is fuel injected not carburated, if so good. next is to test for spark. remove a plugwire and stick a screwdriver into the boot and place screwdriver near metal ground have someone crank motor and see if theres spark, it sounds like you check everything except spark the most common problem with these would be the ignition contorl module,this is located under the dist cap, remove two connector and two screws and it removes have it tested at parts store, this when bad may also stop the injector from spraying fuel, this sounds like its your problem, they are easy to replace. hope the helps and also herea picture of the control module.

Check chilton's manual.

could be. I had a blazer that would do that and it turned out to be the tie rod ends which will also make it wander.

How is your oil pressure sender?? The fuel pump runs thru it after start. Watch the gauge while cranking It may give indication

MOST LIKELY YOUR FUELPUMP IS THE PROBLEM LOCATED IN THE FUEL TANK EITHER WEAK OR YOUR SCREEN IS PLUGGED UP

Upper Control Arm and Bushings–C-Series REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands. Fig. 1: Installing the upper control arm — C-Series
   
   
2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the air cleaner extension (if necessary).
5. Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the control arm.
6. Remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm ball stud and loosen the stud nut until the bottom surface of the nut is slightly below the end of the stud.
7. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
8. Using a screw-type forcing tool, break loose the ball joint from the knuckle.
9. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the control arm to the frame brackets.
10. Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly. The 35 Series bushings are replaceable. The 15/25 Series bushings are welded in place. To install: Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
    
11. Place the control arm in position and install the shims, bolts and new nuts. Both bolt heads must be inboard of the control arm brackets. Tighten the nuts finger tighten for now. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts yet. The bolts must be torqued with the truck at its proper ride height.
    
12. Install the ball stud nut. Tighten the nut to specification.
13. Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels:
    1. Lift the front bumper about 38mm and let it drop.
    2. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 more times.
    3. Draw a line on the side of the lower control arm from the centerline of the control arm pivot shaft, dead level to the outer end of the control arm.
    4. Measure the distance between the lowest corner of the steering knuckle and the line on the control arm. Record the figure.
    5. Push down about 38mm on the front bumper and let it return. Repeat the procedure 2 or 3 more times.
    6. Re-measure the distance at the control arm.
    7. Determine the average of the 2 measurements. The average distance should be 95.0mm plus or minus 6mm.
    8. If the figure is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models.
    9. If the figure is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models and have the front end alignment corrected.

Have u replaced the blower motor speed control resistor? it has a thermal fuse that blows then the blower gets on power, it is located right next to the blower, it plugs into the air duct work for cooling, the is pictured below, about as big as a pack of smokes. it is cheap and avail in the aftermarket,here is the part number:
FOUR SEASONS Part # 20074 [Blower resistor)

You don't need to remove the plastic. Go to the library and get a book on your truck. You will need two special tools to remove the steering wheel and a lock plate.You don't need the expensive ones. If it has an air bag be double sure that there is no power to anything. At the least it will hurt you at the worst it can kill you.

Replace the distributor, coil, and ignition module all at the same time. With HEI ignition systems generally when any of those 3 parts fail the other 2 are damaged in the process.