20 Most Recent 1992 Chevrolet Lumina APV - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Hello
The systems that have stopped working correctly in this car or truck are controlled by a computer module, it is called the BCM short for "Body Control Module". When this BCM module fails you have to run a functional test on it to see what has happened to the system to cause your present problems, the module will generate system fault codes, the technician then looks up the diagnosis for each code and decides what must be repaired or replaced, this fault code testing of the BCM MUST BE DONE with a special electronic testing tool called a "Scanner", without running the tests it is just a guess as to the cause of the problem. If the BCM turns out to have failed the dealer will need to program the new part for your truck or car, you can't just pop one in, the security system (which also goes through the BCM) will disable the engine.

Either.... just do the homework before buying. check the blue book value of a vehicle b4 buying and have a mechanic check the vehicle out b4 buying.

Hello! The #1 culprit is the Throttle Positioning Sensor (TPS)...If you have a multimeter and a wee bit of experience using it the TPS can be tested...If you would prefer not to perform a test just let me know...
The TPS is bolted to the side of the throttle body over the throttle shaft...It has a 3 wire connector with the following wire colors...Gray...Black...And Dark Blue...Using 2 safety pins push the point into the rear of the in-place connector into the Black wire, making contact with the pin the wire is crimped to...Push the other into the Dark Bluw wire...Set the meter to read 5 volts...Place the + probe on the Dark Blue wire and the - probe on the Black...Turn the key to ON...Meter must read less than 1 volt (.85)...Start the engine (and if you can) slowly increase the throttle...Voltage must rise to 4 volts at wide open throttle...You probably will not be able to throttle up, however get it as high as you can...Voltage needs to rise past 3.5 volts...See photo of TPS below...Send a comment...Guru...Saailer


STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TH42
COST $30
I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

Check bad motor mounts; needs a tune up probably.

Keep us updates and send us additional details.

There are tabs that hold the mirror in place. Remove the mirror face as follows: Position the hand in the center of the mirror face. Apply light pressure. Push upward releasing the motor retainers from the mirror back. Holding the mirror face, disconnect the electrical connectors from the back of the mirror. ----------- Pop the mirror off of the 4 tabs .There appears to be a center ball connected to the mirror when taking off and if that center ball appears to have broken from the motor then the mirror assembly is to be replaced.Otherwise you can refit the mirror glass in reverse or removal. -------------- Click this link directly for more help:--- http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2011/01/how-to-tight-side-mirron-on-chevrolet.html ---------------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Probably the heater core.

What you have is a very common and annoying problem with aluminum wheels. There are 3 things you can do. Take it to a tire shop and have them put rubber sealant around the bead, put fix a flat in each tire, or like you said, buy steel wheels.

REMOVAL

1. Remove front cover.
2. Remove oil filter adapter, pressure regulator valve and spring.

Fig. 16 Oil Pump & Housing

1. Remove oil pump cover attaching screws, then the cover and gears, Fig. 16 .

INSPECTION

1. Check pump cover and housing for cracks, scoring, porous or damaged casting, damaged threads or excessive wear or galling. Replace as required.
2. Check pressure regulator valve for scoring, burrs or sticking in valve bore. Replace as required.
3. Check pressure regulator valve spring for tension loss or bending, replace spring as required.
4. Check gears for chipping galling or excessive wear, replace as required.

Fig. 17 Oil Pump Inner Gear Tip Clearance Inspection

1. Measure oil pump inner gear tip clearance, Fig. 17 . Maximum clearance should be 0.006 inch.

Fig. 18 Oil Pump Outer Gear Diameter Clearance Inspection

1. Measure oil pump outer gear diameter clearance, Fig. 18 . Clearance should be 0.008-0.015 inch.

Fig. 19 Oil Pump Gear End Clearance Inspection

1. Measure oil pump gear end clearance with gear dropped in housing, FIG 19. Clearance should be 0.0010-0.0035 inch.
2. Measure pressure regulator valve for valve to bore clearance of 0.0015-0.003 inch.

INSTALLATION

1. Lubricate all gears with clean motor oil, then install gears in housing.
2. Pack pump cavity with suitable petroleum jelly.
3. Install pump cover and cover attaching screws. Tighten cover attaching screws to specifications.
4. Install pressure regulator valve and spring.
5. Install oil filter adapter using a new gasket, tighten oil filter adapter attaching bolts to specifications.
6. Install front cover on engine. During front cover installation, ensure inner pump gear is properly engaged on crankshaft sprocket.

do you mean the code reader is flooding meaning giving this code tons of times or are you saying the car is flooding out and you also are getting a fuel knock sensor code. The more complete thourough the questions are the better diagnosis can be given. The situation is the knock sensor is just that. it picked up some kind of vibration and in turns tries to protect the engine from any further damage. this is why the car is not starting. Usually this trips the fuel shut off switch and stops the fuel pump from running. Untill you reset the fuel shut off this will not start. Owners manual will explain location and procedure of switch.

upper or lower ?

Power steering fluid goes in the black reservoir at the top center of the belt area on the engine.

THERE are a couple things could be going on. low fuel pressure can cause this possibly from a restricted fuel filter. if it is clogged it will not flow enough fuel under loads and car will bog down. if you have not changed in a while would be good maintence any way. another could be the catylitic convertor clogged up causing too much backpressure in exhaust.this is checked with a back pressure gauge. after driving and acting up if it is stopped up it will get extremely hot they get hot anyway but sometimes will get almost glowing red if it is like this then it is stopped up

I know you mentioned the EGR valve has been replaced, but you may have a bad 'new' part. I know the car is electronic, but has anyone checked its ignition timing (timing belt been looked at, I know it only has 77k on it). Is the fuel pressure regulator OK and it vacumm supply?

going off and on randomly either indicates there is a bad connection in the charging system somewhere or that the brushes inside the alternator are worn and are not always making contact.
It could also mean that any other internal alternator component is beginning to fail...either way, unless you know how to rebuild one it means that it needs replacement.
Before replacing anything though, check all connections and also belt tension. You can have a test done at most larger parts stores that includes a battery and charging rate analysis. (most do that free).

down pipe then catalytic converter

IF YOU DRIVE IT TOO SHORT TIME THE BATTERY GOES BAD ON YOU . TRY ALWAYS TOO RUN THE ENGINE SO IT GOES UP TO RUNING TEMP AN THE COOLER FAN STARTS, THEN IT IS GENERALLY FULLY LOADED UP AFTER START

The firing order is 1-2-3-4-5-6.
When looking at the front of the van, #1 is on the left towards the rear. #2 is on the left towards the front, #3 is in the middle rear, and so on. The distributor rotates clockwise
If #1 terminal is not marked on the distributor, rotate the engine to the timing mark for TDC. At this place, the rotor will point to either #1 or #4. You can assume it's #1 and wire it up. If you're wrong, the engine will not start as all plugs will fire on the exhaust stroke and no harm will be done either. If that os the case, you know you just have to rotate all the wires 3 places.