1992 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 7 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Sounds like it's as simple as a relay. Sorry, but I'm not sure where the relay box is located in a model as old as yours, maybe want to check under the dash or in the engine compartment. Then just pull the relay and replace it. May cost about $8-$10 at your local auto parts store.

Try putting some transx in it i was having some problems with my transmission put some in there got another thirty thousand out of it not sayin it will work if nothing else it may be worth a shot its only like nine dollars. I know from exsperience i would not change your transmission fluid i swear everytime i try that ity pushes it over the edge sounds crazy but its like that old dirty fluid for me was the only thing holding it together. lol

Heater Core - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1991-92 R/V and 1991-98 C/K Series

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the instrument panel glove compartment.
4. Tag and unplug all electrical leads as necessary.
5. Remove the center air distribution duct from the floor.
6. If necessary, remove the ECM and mounting tray.
7. Remove the hinge pillar trim panels.
8. Remove the blower motor cover and then remove the motor.
9. Remove the steering wheel and tilt back the instrument panel slightly.
10. Remove the coolant overflow tank. Disengage the heater hoses at the core connections.
11. Unfasten the attaching screws and nut and then remove the heater case.
12. Remove the seven screws and lift off the heater case cover.
13. Remove the fasteners and brackets that hold the heater core to the case and lift the core from the case.

To install:

1. Install the heater core in the case.
2. Install the heater case bottom plate. Make sure there is a good seal.
3. Install the heater case into the truck. Tighten the 4 lower screws to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm); the upper screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm); and the nuts to 25 inch lbs. (2.8 Nm).
4. Connect the heater hoses at the core tubes.
5. Install the coolant overflow tank.
6. Install the instrument panel and the steering wheel.
7. Install the blower motor and cover.
8. Install the trim panels and if removed, the ECM. Install the air distribution duct and reconnect all electrical leads.
9. Install the glove compartment. Fill the cooling system and connect the battery cable.

Blower Motor - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1992-98 Models
(see Figure 4)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right rear quarter panel trim.
3. Disconnect the electrical lead at the fan.
4. Remove the screws and if equipped, the cooling tube.
5. If necessary, remove the fan retaining nut and lift out the blower fan.
6. Remove the blower motor.
   

To install:

1. Install the blower motor and then position the fan.
2. Install the retaining nut and then tighten the mounting screws to 12 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
3. If removed, install the cooling tube.
4. Connect the electrical lead. Install the quarter panel trim cover.
5. Connect the battery cable.

Fig. 4: Auxiliary heating and A/C system

Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

on the transmission you will see a tag attached to it with large letters an numbers. those numbers are the code for the trans matching to the computers set ratio of your transmission. you will need the exact same trans with that code or the check engine light will constantly stay on

Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and this can rust the insides of the brake system. The moisture was not that big of deal 10 years ago, but on ABS brake systems of today, the rust and other debris that accumulates in the fluid can do lots of internal damage, and can be very costly. Brake fluid can also break down over time from excess heat that is created from within the brake system.
It is recommend flushing the brake fluid system about every 30,000 miles, or at 30K, 60K and 90k tune up. It cost about $90, but you can do it by yourself. To do this flush, open the brake lines located at each wheel and allow the brake fluid from the brake master cylinder to "bleed by gravity", as continue to feed new fluid to the master cylinder until the fluid runs clear at all wheels.You need two people do do this job. One at master cylinder brake fluid bottle under hood, adding fluid, and the other one under the car tightening up the bleeding nipples as necessary, until the discharge clears up. The discharge has to be collected in 16OZ plastic bottle via clear vinyl hoses from the bleeding nipple to the bottle. It is a good idea to replace all 4 nipples with new one. They are cheap and avoid problems in long run. Make sure to use at least DOT 4 brake fluid. Make sure to use a sealed bottle. The life of brake fluid in an open bottle is one week. If the brake pedal is spongy, then go for bleeding of the brake system, one wheel at a time. You must inspect all breaking system components, from master cylinder, up to calipers, or rear brake cylinder for any leak, or malfunction. check the status of brake lines for rust, and if necessary replace or undercoat them.

replace the distributor gear on the distributor. the get worn down and sharp and the computer can't controll the timing rite. also check your tps.

to transport you to a higher level of existance

the yellow is the constant power the red is the power when car on the black is ground the rest are speaker wires all speaker wires with a stripe on them are ground rest positive speaker wires

Hi Friend:

YOUR firing ORDER IS 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Clockwise Rotation.

Facing your Truck heres where your Cylinders Are.

Front Of Truck

1-------------------------------------2

3-------------------------------------4

5-------------------------------------6

7-------------------------------------8

This should help you getting your firing order correct.

To Find where top dead center is at and thats where your #1 Plug Wire would go.

First remove your Coil wire so it will not Start.

Then pull out #1 spark plug ,and while someone just bumps your engine on & Off until you are on Compression Stroke, You can just put your finger in the outer edge of where #1 Plug went and when the Air trys to push yuor finger out of #1 Spark Plug hole.

STOP.don't Crank it no more ,cause you are at Top Dead Center (TDC) ,Then takeoff your distributor cap and look at the way your Rotors pointing,Then where ever the rotors pointing is also where #1 Spark Plug wire will go.

NOTE: Sometimes the rotor will be just a little past where #1 Plug wire goes in your Distributor Cap,If its in between two of the Spark Plug Wire Sockets Then start #1 at the One over to the Right.

Hope I have given you enough info. on Possible Solutions,I would start at the first i Gave you,and work your way down.

Thanks For Using FixYa Please let me know how I've Helped you by Voting for me on the Quality of my Solutions.
Thanks again From: Your Expert d_hubbs

Do the brake lights share the same bulb as the turn signals? If so the brake light circuit goes through the turn signal switch inside the steering column. There could be an open in one of the wires or a contact in the switch causing the brake lights to not work.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Good Luck.

remove the rear wheels and take the drums off and have good look ,you can adjust it by using a special bendix tool through the hole in the back of the brake plate ,or use a bent flat screwdriver

if you have checked the fuses and the flasher then what is a common fault on these is the turn signal switch itself. Sometimes wiggling it and movings back and forth will get it to work which would definetaly means its failing.

Check the system pressure. If it is low the compressor won't come on.

ok, if you change the caliper and it still stays stuck, then a proportioning valve or master cylinder may be stuck or there is a
constriction in the hydraulic line.

Maybe replace the lines to the othe rparts of the braking system.

a wheel bearing ?

Its the 2 wires that plug into the top front section of the A.C.compressor.

Hello my name is Ben. You most likely have a leaking head gasket. The gasket leak is allowing coolant into the combustion chamber which is why you see the white smoke.

If you have tried starting fluid to verify there is no spark (use sparingly), a likely culprit is the crank sensor. The ignition module could also be at fault. If there is zero pressure at the fuel rail, the pump has failed. If pressure is low, the pump may be failing or the filter may be clogged. Check fuses and relays before investing in a new pump, sensor, or ignition module. If you have to guess and check, replace the fuel filter first, as it should be replaced periodically anyway, esp. if you end up replacing the fuel pump. It is also possible that a wiring harness has corroded or been broken if there is really no fuel at all and no spark at all.

The flashing brake light means there is a dangerous brake problem, you need to have a professional check out your brakes.