20 Most Recent 1992 Chevrolet C1500 - Page 9 Questions & Answers

It sounds like a bad ground. Check the ground circuits to your dash lights as well as check out your tail lights to make sure they are working properly. (The tail lights run on the same circuit as the dash lights, although tey have a separate grounding point.) The gauges are most likely going goofy because the dash and/or tail lights are trying to pull ground through the gauges circuit.

replace TPS

Should tell you on the emission label,on top of or near the radiator,
or under the hood

the handle and linkage needs to be greased , unscrew the plate on the inside of the tailgate, so you can see the handle ,spray with penetrating oil , keep moving the handle and linkage until it moves freely

Fuel enrichment? The TBI /ECM system increases fuel mixture when cold starting. If you have low fuel pressure or dirty injectors it will impeed this function. The computer will continuely try to solve but cannot do to the low fuel function, should get it fixed right away as it will burn out the phase of the computer that controls this. Fuel pressure test first, it should hold between 9 -13 lbs of pressure. If you have not changed the fuel filter inline located on the frame do so $10 and it could be the fix. You can hookup a timing light and point at the injectors and this will illuminate the spray making it easier to see, the spray also will run in time with the light so if it is not there is a sequence problem between modulator, computer and possibly a crank/cam position sensor. Good Luck

s4s-ect that the heater hose under the dash (may be difficult to get at) has come loose from the dash vent. It may have come loose from the heater cowling - but unlikely since you do get heat the mos"in the bottom setting" It could also be a problem with the butterfly deflector which directs the path of the air flow from the heater core - not the most likely cause.

Sounds like it's as simple as a relay. Sorry, but I'm not sure where the relay box is located in a model as old as yours, maybe want to check under the dash or in the engine compartment. Then just pull the relay and replace it. May cost about $8-$10 at your local auto parts store.

Try putting some transx in it i was having some problems with my transmission put some in there got another thirty thousand out of it not sayin it will work if nothing else it may be worth a shot its only like nine dollars. I know from exsperience i would not change your transmission fluid i swear everytime i try that ity pushes it over the edge sounds crazy but its like that old dirty fluid for me was the only thing holding it together. lol

Heater Core - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1991-92 R/V and 1991-98 C/K Series

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Drain the cooling system.
3. Remove the instrument panel glove compartment.
4. Tag and unplug all electrical leads as necessary.
5. Remove the center air distribution duct from the floor.
6. If necessary, remove the ECM and mounting tray.
7. Remove the hinge pillar trim panels.
8. Remove the blower motor cover and then remove the motor.
9. Remove the steering wheel and tilt back the instrument panel slightly.
10. Remove the coolant overflow tank. Disengage the heater hoses at the core connections.
11. Unfasten the attaching screws and nut and then remove the heater case.
12. Remove the seven screws and lift off the heater case cover.
13. Remove the fasteners and brackets that hold the heater core to the case and lift the core from the case.

To install:

1. Install the heater core in the case.
2. Install the heater case bottom plate. Make sure there is a good seal.
3. Install the heater case into the truck. Tighten the 4 lower screws to 17 inch lbs. (2 Nm); the upper screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm); and the nuts to 25 inch lbs. (2.8 Nm).
4. Connect the heater hoses at the core tubes.
5. Install the coolant overflow tank.
6. Install the instrument panel and the steering wheel.
7. Install the blower motor and cover.
8. Install the trim panels and if removed, the ECM. Install the air distribution duct and reconnect all electrical leads.
9. Install the glove compartment. Fill the cooling system and connect the battery cable.

Blower Motor - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1992-98 Models
(see Figure 4)

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right rear quarter panel trim.
3. Disconnect the electrical lead at the fan.
4. Remove the screws and if equipped, the cooling tube.
5. If necessary, remove the fan retaining nut and lift out the blower fan.
6. Remove the blower motor.
   

To install:

1. Install the blower motor and then position the fan.
2. Install the retaining nut and then tighten the mounting screws to 12 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
3. If removed, install the cooling tube.
4. Connect the electrical lead. Install the quarter panel trim cover.
5. Connect the battery cable.

Fig. 4: Auxiliary heating and A/C system

Hope this helps (remember to rate this answer).

on the transmission you will see a tag attached to it with large letters an numbers. those numbers are the code for the trans matching to the computers set ratio of your transmission. you will need the exact same trans with that code or the check engine light will constantly stay on

latches for this are on the sides. The are connected by the handle in the middle of the gate. Latches are either stuck open (dry or frozen open) or stuck closed and you are banging on them when trying to close and "latch" gate. Get a screwdriver and while pulling up on tailgate handle make sure latches(on gate) are open to engage "striker bolt". If they are spray them liberally with WD40 or silicone SPRAY. latch and open several times to let lubricant attack rusted area on mechanism.

If latches won't open they may be stuck closed and won't open because cable going from middle handle to that side or both sides is disconnected. Does tailgate have star shaped bolts on "inside-bed-when-closed" side? If so you will need to spray these with WD40 and let set then get a star torques bit and remove them to access middle handle actuator.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and this can rust the insides of the brake system. The moisture was not that big of deal 10 years ago, but on ABS brake systems of today, the rust and other debris that accumulates in the fluid can do lots of internal damage, and can be very costly. Brake fluid can also break down over time from excess heat that is created from within the brake system.
It is recommend flushing the brake fluid system about every 30,000 miles, or at 30K, 60K and 90k tune up. It cost about $90, but you can do it by yourself. To do this flush, open the brake lines located at each wheel and allow the brake fluid from the brake master cylinder to "bleed by gravity", as continue to feed new fluid to the master cylinder until the fluid runs clear at all wheels.You need two people do do this job. One at master cylinder brake fluid bottle under hood, adding fluid, and the other one under the car tightening up the bleeding nipples as necessary, until the discharge clears up. The discharge has to be collected in 16OZ plastic bottle via clear vinyl hoses from the bleeding nipple to the bottle. It is a good idea to replace all 4 nipples with new one. They are cheap and avoid problems in long run. Make sure to use at least DOT 4 brake fluid. Make sure to use a sealed bottle. The life of brake fluid in an open bottle is one week. If the brake pedal is spongy, then go for bleeding of the brake system, one wheel at a time. You must inspect all breaking system components, from master cylinder, up to calipers, or rear brake cylinder for any leak, or malfunction. check the status of brake lines for rust, and if necessary replace or undercoat them.

replace the distributor gear on the distributor. the get worn down and sharp and the computer can't controll the timing rite. also check your tps.

to transport you to a higher level of existance

the yellow is the constant power the red is the power when car on the black is ground the rest are speaker wires all speaker wires with a stripe on them are ground rest positive speaker wires

Hi Friend:

YOUR firing ORDER IS 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 Clockwise Rotation.

Facing your Truck heres where your Cylinders Are.

Front Of Truck

1-------------------------------------2

3-------------------------------------4

5-------------------------------------6

7-------------------------------------8

This should help you getting your firing order correct.

To Find where top dead center is at and thats where your #1 Plug Wire would go.

First remove your Coil wire so it will not Start.

Then pull out #1 spark plug ,and while someone just bumps your engine on & Off until you are on Compression Stroke, You can just put your finger in the outer edge of where #1 Plug went and when the Air trys to push yuor finger out of #1 Spark Plug hole.

STOP.don't Crank it no more ,cause you are at Top Dead Center (TDC) ,Then takeoff your distributor cap and look at the way your Rotors pointing,Then where ever the rotors pointing is also where #1 Spark Plug wire will go.

NOTE: Sometimes the rotor will be just a little past where #1 Plug wire goes in your Distributor Cap,If its in between two of the Spark Plug Wire Sockets Then start #1 at the One over to the Right.

Hope I have given you enough info. on Possible Solutions,I would start at the first i Gave you,and work your way down.

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Thanks again From: Your Expert d_hubbs

Do the brake lights share the same bulb as the turn signals? If so the brake light circuit goes through the turn signal switch inside the steering column. There could be an open in one of the wires or a contact in the switch causing the brake lights to not work.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Good Luck.