20 Most Recent 1990 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

you will have to get a new motor that pushes/pulls the window located inside the door pannel

You have a short/drain on the battery...
Hopefully you have a multimeter with current capability, if so
with the switch OFF, meter in current mode (highest range):
Pull fuses one at a time and put meter leads in place of fuse
to see if there is current. If you find current, see if it makes
sense (doors open, dome light on?, radio clock, etc..)

If you don't have a multimeter, it's going to be tough but can
be done with a little strategy. Try pulling the fuse for the most
likely candidate (one at a time, obviously) and let it sit. It would be nice if you have some way to check the charge so it won't
go dead.

I've heard many people have this problem with a bad instrument cluster, there are companies that sell rebuilt units. Also make sure there's not something stuck in the cig lighter jack, especially if you use it a lot for phone/ipod, etc...

Good luck :)

1-6-5-4-3-2,,,,1-3-5 are on the driver side,and 2-4-6 are on the passengers side,from the front of the truck.

the hinge pins rides on brass bushings. if the door does not latch replace the pin and bushings with oversized ones available at Chevrolet parts department
you will need a sring compressor which is available at Auto Zone

first check fuses. then locate the horns. remove the plug to it and with a test lite have a friend push the pad on the steering wheel. does the test lite lite up? if so the horn is bad if not remove the pad on the steering wheel there a single wire hooked to it. using the test lite put the tip of it in that wire and ground to the metal on the steering does the horn go off? if yes the pad may be bad.hope this helps

Use a tape measure (preferably one used for upholstery soft) and run over pulleys on the same route you want your "bypass" belt to run

there is a circuit board under hood on firewall driver side take it out and get someone to solder the board up or get one from a scrap yard. could be the stem but not likely.

You are looking for a round hole in your engine casting that is filled with a plug. Most of them, and there are several, will be about 11/2 inches round and set into the block about 1/4 inch. There should be 3 down each side of the block midway between the head and the oilpan. There are 1 each at each end of the heads and 1 at the back of the cam and a couple under the timing chain cover and a couple behind the engine under the bell housing. I'm probably mssing some.
If you are looking to put it a block heater, usually the middle one on the driver's side is the easiest or the middle one on the passenger side. The middle one is best as the heat gets distributed a little more evenly.
If you need to change one that is leaking, measure carefully before you knock it out to be sure you get the right one to put back in. They are various sizes in 1/8 or even 1/16 increments.
Hope this helps.

Hi, make sure you do not have an injector stuck open, as it will dump gas constantly. Also make sure your ignition coil is not arcing, causing a spark loss. last, your coolant temp sensor,(next to the thermostat), may be bad. when they go bad, or are unhooked, it can make the computer read -40 degrees, and make the engine run rich, smoke, and sputter. Good luck...Coop

In the fuel tank.That is where it is, on 99% of all
vehicles made in the last 30 years!!

It sounds like you have some plugged injector.Are you sure you have the correct fuel pressure?The fuel pressure has to be 9-13 psi.Does it start when you spray brake cleaner or carb.cleaner into the throttle body?If it does then you can try obtaining a used throttle body from a salvage yard or if you want to spend the money buy new ones.Hope this helps.Let me know what you find or if you have anymore questions.Good luck.

hi, find a suitable BOLT with ny-lock NUT. use a ROLL PIN (may need to drill-out to fit, needs to be tight, and longer then the hinge). these high tension roll pins come in all sizes. may get one in your local HARDWARE store. if not your local garage should have them.
failing this drill to very near size and fit (high tension bolt and locknut). sorry i can do more. gerry

Side of engine block, passenger side.

Replace the ICM (Ignition Control Module) or have it tested at Auto Zone, they test free of charge. The other thing also is you may want to give it a Seafoam treatment to clean out any dirt and varnish from your fuel line and injectors. You can buy a Seafoam at Auto Zone also and your going to need 2 cans to get the job done, just follow the instructions.

Thank you for using fixya and good luck.

http://gmcowners.com/gmc-forum/showthread.php?t=13770

The temperature sensor is where I would start. If the sensor tell the computer that the engine is cold it will initiate the warm up mode which includes advancing the timing along with a rich fuel mixture. Unfortunately, there are many sensors that assist in controlling timing and fuel mixtures that it is difficult for me to give you a guaranteed solution.

the est module,along with the ignition module

just behind the rear u-joint, square female plug, passenger side.