20 Most Recent 2001 Pontiac Montana - Page 3 Questions & Answers

abs and traction controls both use the same wheel sensors before you do any very costly repairs check that all the sensor wires are connected if you run the fault codes you may even get which wheel sensor has failed

Coolant sensor is unplugged or bad. Follow the top radiator hose to the engine. to the left of it and below it is where the sensor is. Drivers side. Not fun to replace.

You could have major vacuum leak or a problem with the IAC - idle air control motor . Is your vehicles check engine light on ? Fuel System ?€¢ Test the fuel system circuits for proper operation. Refer to Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis .

?€¢ Test for low fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .

?€¢ Test for faulty fuel injectors. Refer to Fuel Injector Balance Test with Special Tool , Fuel Injector Balance Test with Tech 2 , Fuel Injector Solenoid Coil Test test procedures.

?€¢ Inspect for fuel contamination. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis .

?€¢ Inspect for fuel in the pressure regulator vacuum hose.

?€¢ Ensure each injector harness is connected to the correct injector/cylinder.

?€¢ Inspect for any items which may cause an engine to run rich, long term fuel trim is significantly in the negative range. Refer to Diagnostic Aids for DTC P0172.

?€¢ Inspect for any items which may cause an engine to run lean, long term fuel trim is significantly in the positive range. Refer to Diagnostic Aids for DTC P0171.

Sensor/System ?€¢ Test for conditions which cause an incorrect idle speed.

- Throttle body tampering, excessive deposits, or damage--Refer to Fuel System Description .

- Restricted air intake system

- Large vacuum leak

?€¢ Inspect the air intake ducts for being collapsed, damaged areas, looseness, improper installation, or leaking especially between the mass air flow (MAF) sensor and the throttle body.

?€¢ Inspect crankcase ventilation valve for proper operation.

?€¢ Inspect the throttle position (TP) sensor and related wiring. Refer to DTC P0123 .

?€¢ Monitor the 24X crankshaft position (CKP) and camshaft position (CMP) sensors on scan tool. If both are not responding, test the sensor feed circuit. Both sensors use a separate feed circuit but are internally connected to power. Test all 24X and CMP sensor circuits for intermittents. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.

?€¢ Monitor the 3X parameter on the scan tool. If the 3X is not responding, inspect the 7X CKP sensor and circuits for intermittents. Inspect the ignition control (IC) circuit, bypass circuit, 3X reference high circuit, and the 3X reference low circuit for intermittents. If these circuits become open, or shorted may not set a DTC immediately, but are capable of causing driveability complaints. Refer to Testing for Intermittent Conditions and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems.

?€¢ Test the exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system for proper operation. Refer to Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Description .

?€¢ Inspect the Transaxle Range Switch input with the vehicle in drive and the gear selector in drive or overdrive.

It probably neeeds the attention of a mechanic/technician. Possibly a fuel supply problem, possibly more....it may just need a service but it is probably best to have it checked before it develops into something worse

Coolant leaks, gasket problem,Gm special !!!,

bad blower motor

have wheel speed sensors checke

Amazing.....At this very moment in time.....my 2000 silhouette is doing the same thing....if you were unaware.....ventures Montana's and silhouette are from the same mold. Very similar in all aspects. My diagnostics have got to the fuel pump part of suspects....but I have already checked filter, relays, fuses and ignition electronics....my latest suspect is the pressure sensor that monitors the pressure of the gas tank....there is also a pressure sensor on the injector rail I'm suspicious of. I'm going to find out how to place each sensor in "okay ....fuel pump turn on and pump fuel to the throttle body" to check them. In my case....I don't smell any gas after turning the engine over....trying to start it.....sometimes for over an hour....never any gas smell....so I suspect fuel delivery is the problem. The fuel pump has several sensors that control whether or not it needs to run....and pump gas. I can hear my fuel pump run for 2 or3 seconds when I turn the ignition to the on or start positions.testing all of those sensors is my plan of action for this 3 day weekend. Your on track with your work and suspicion of the position sensors......vacuum leaks will follow the sensor checks. Vacuum leaks could cause a couple of sensors to fail too.....I dropped my fuel tank last weekend....and found the fuel pump to be in working condition.....I removed my fuel filter and punched a hole through it for free flow.....to eliminate it from the list...after checking the vacuum angle....I will move to the electronics side.....with the ignition switch first and the transmission position indicator switch following.....I've plugged my trouble code reader in and didn't get any indication of any failed electronic devices......my problem and your problem seem to be very similar, except that I am doing all of my work on the van myself. I will try to keep you informed of my diagnostics through fix it.it would be nice to know how yours is advancing too.....there are a few directions you can progress into.....hope one solves your problem....if not.....there will be more ideas to come....until I solve my problem....good luck to. Us both and onward we go......Nick.ps couldn't spell or grammar check because I'm using my phone to compose....and the typing pad covers the entirescript being typed. Sorry for any problems. Associated

Low on freon. Get it with die in it. A black lihgt will show the leaks.

Attach OBD scanner to pin connector. turn the key to the "on" position, this brings power to OBD11 connection. follow mfg directions for the scanner you have.

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Trailer Wiring Diagrams 4 Way Systems

4 way flat molded connectors allow basic hookup for three lighting functions; right turn signal / stop light (green), left turn signal / stop light (yellow), taillight / license / side marker (brown) and a ground (white).

4 way tow vehicle side.
4 way trailer side.
5 Way Systems

Same as 4 way system listed above but adds a extra blue wire for brake signal or auxiliary power. Used on pop up camper trailers or utility / boat trailers.
5 way tow vehicle side.
5 way trailer side.
6 Way System, Rectangle Plug 3/4 inch by 1 inch 6 way rectangle connectors right turn signal (green), left turn signal (yellow), taillight (brown), ground (white). The red and blue wire can be used for brake control or auxiliary. Use on a small motorcycle trailer, snowmobile trailer or utility trailer. Can also be used as custom wiring on trailers with 3 light/wire systems. See "Tow Vehicle Taillight Wiring" below.
6 way tow vehicle side.
6 way trailer side.
6 Way Systems, Round Plug

Round 1 1/4" diameter metal connector allows 1 or 2 additional wiring and lighting functions such as back up lights, auxiliary 12v power or electric brakes. Note: The black (sometimes red) 12v and blue electric brakes wire may need to be reversed to suit the trailer. Check with a test light or VOM. Uses: horse trailer, travel trailers, landscaping trailer, car trailer, etc.

6 way tow vehicle side.
6 way trailer side.
7 Way Systems

Round 2" diameter connector allows additional pin for auxiliary 12 volt power or backup lights. Uses: heavy duty landscaping trailer, car trailer, boat trailers, horse trailer, travel trailer, construction trailer, etc. Check with a test light or VOM.

7 way RV flat blade tow vehicle side.
7 way RV flat blade trailer side.

This is normal.

Sounds like the timing system is out of time!

Sure its not steam could need thermostat gasket?

Bad MAF sensor.

The Montana only came with one engine size, unlike what others may think. Unfortunately, at the factory, two different starters were put in, one slightly larger than the other. I've run into this several times on the Montana. I'm not sure, but I think it has to do with whether or not your car has the heavy duty transmission(which is commonly(but not always) determined by your wheel base). The Montanas came in two different lengths. I address it is by purchasing both, removing the old starter and matching it up to the new one, then return the one I don't use. I document it for my customer, that way they have a reference for the future. if that isn't an option, then take the old one out, catch a ride to the auto parts store, and match it up there. That way, you are only out of pocket for one and you don't have to front for a core charge. if that still isn't and option and you can get the car to start, drive it to the auto parts store, remove the starter in their parking lot, and match it up, then install your new one.

They are rather hard to bleed, but if it's that long and persistent odds are it's an intake leak if no evidence of leaks are found elsewhere.

That is interesting. Usually it's the other way around. If your check engine light is on and you have a P0171 and/or P0174 codes, Then check the mass airflow sensor and the tubing between the MAF and throttlebody. If the check engine light is not on or you have P0172 and/or P0175 codes, then check the air filter, air filter box, and tubing between the air box and MAF. Also, check to see if the throttle body has excessive buildup and if so, service your throttle body. The codes may help you narrow down the root of the problem. Otherwise check and clean all the air ducting going into the engine and replace the air filter.

carefully.I think this one is on the bottom and might require going underneath the vehicle. Remove belt first, drain coolant then I always buy the new one next. That way you can see where the mounting bolts are. Remove bolts and pump assembly. use a hi temp sealer on the gasket both sides to prevent leaks. Replace bolts then fill with some new coolant. Don't forget to bleed the system when it is hot. Myself I replace thermostat at the same time so I don't have to go back later and open the hood again.

the drain plugs normally have a rubber washer under the seat The washer is normally flat but an "O" ring of the right size will do the trick Check that the plastic tank is not cracked or the thread on the plug or in the tank is not stripped.