20 Most Recent 2000 Nissan Maxima - Page 7 Questions & Answers

There should be a shrader valve (Looks like where you put air in the tires) somewhere on the fuel rail. You need a fuel pressure gauge to test it accurately, but you can tell if you have fuel pressure. After you find the valve, remove the cap, and have someone turn the car on, and you should see fuel squirt out. Be VERY careful because this is raw gas and make sure there is no spark or flame around it. The OBD connector should be just to the left of the steereing column on the lower part of the dash. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/tom_1788908372a4836f

Check the EGR valve. Your symptoms are commensurate with a failing EGR, but it could be something else just as easily. Check all your vacuum lines... there is a schematic diagram that shows the locations for each vacuum hose. Also check the air box and plenum assembly for cracks. You can't have any leaks in the vacuum system. The last two things to check are the fuel injectors and O2 sensor(s). The fuel injectors require specialist equipment to verify the spray pattern.. Bosch service centers have these. Most sensor malfunctions are recorded as faults on your vehicle's computer (called an ECM or ECU in technical jargon). You can buy an inexpensive fault code reader.... Aktions are easy to use. Follow the directions and use the chapter on Emission Controls in the Haynes Manual for your car to understand what they mean and how to repair them. You can always list another question or provide the fault codes for us to assist you with your car.

Is there a check engine light on? Did car crank with old battery or you just replaced to see if would start?

Without more details this is the best I can suggest. With the hood open attach a length of wire or small chain to the hood via the metal loop bolted to the hood. A coat hanger would work for this but a small chain, being flexible is better. Then while closing the hood thread the wire or chain down behind the grill and in front of the radiator, being careful not to be in a position to rub against any wiring, and then attach the wire or chain to the bumper, bumper bracket, front crossmember or whatever you can find that is solid. With the chain you can add a padlock which lets you lock the hood. Remember to get the hood pulled down as tightly as possible as you don't want air getting underneath and pulling the hood up while driving. You could use a bungee cord temporarily but they generally are too stretchy and easy to tear. Trust me, you DO NOT want the hood flying open while driving down the freeway! Been there, done that and it ain't fun and it IS dangerous as all get out. Good Luck.

Primary circuit fault... goes from the ignition switch to the battery to the starter. Most likely problem is the ignition switch.

did you try changing the fuse?

Near the trottle body follow the air filter air duck hose that goes to the trottle body

No the speed sensor is in the transmission Run the fault codes as it may not be the speed sensor

I don't understand the question.

Depends on why the light was turned on. If it was a problem with an emissions component, the problem may still exist.

replace the faulty fuel pump relay next to get you going back to normal

High pulse width indicates the need for a vary rich mix sent by the ECU. This could be due to a very bad coolant temp sensor, or some other strange ECU problem. The plugs sparking only once could be ECU cutting spark due to sensor out of limits.

Rubbing noise usually indicates that your brake pads has worn down, and it's rubbing against brake rotor. It's more like grinding noise rather than rubbing, right? And for the brake light problem, as brake pads wear down, brake fluid level goes down too. Your car is equiped with a brake fluid level sensor. So, check your brake pad first before adding brake fluid.

If you have the 3.0L V6 yes. If you have the 3.5l V6 no.

Hope this helps.

hi , if you are sure the no. 6 cylinder is misfire then change the ignition coil if you are sure but if you are going to buy a new coil better buy all 6 coils and it will last longer if not after no.6 then no.5 or 4,3, until you change all of it .....for rough runs pls flush / change ATF every 20,000 km and change engine oil every 5,000 km , change the exhaust (o2) sensor it make a lot of different , resetting your throttle sensor and speed sensor , all the above must change it with nissan oem part and it not that expensive too.

Check the heater core for a partial obstruction (rust or sludge) Also the hot water valve may not be operating correctly. Lastly make sure the radiator has enough coolant in it.

the problem with this hard steering, is the lower steering shaft to the second u joint. and it is a lot cheeper than a steering rack.

try using a scanner to reset the CPU and immobiliser program.

Sounds like possibly a security issue shutting the engine down. Is the security light on the dash on ?