20 Most Recent 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty Questions & Answers

Hello!
There are two differnt reasons for black and white smoke coming from the tail pipe.
Black smoke means fuel runs rich (car getting to much gas). Check fuel pressure/air filter.
In some cases the white smoke means car is burning oil or transmittion fluid. Have tem checked/replaced.
If you can feel a smelly smoke it can be catalytic converter.
In a worsest scenario if car blowing white smoke it can be engine coolant is getting into an engine cylinder from a bad head gasket ,or a warped/cracked head. So you need to keep your eye on coolant level and check your engine for overheat. Also might be good to check your oil for traces of coolant (on a dipstick it would be a milky substance mixture of oil and coolant).
Good Luck

There is no fuse just for door ajar chime. Door Ajar Warning Chime The door ajar warning chime warns that a door is ajar. The door ajar warning chime is a single chime with a 1 second duration. The door ajar chime sounds when the driver or passenger door becomes ajar while the ignition switch is in the ON position. The door ajar warning chime inputs are:

• the ignition switch ON position
• the door ajar switches

The output is the instrument cluster chime.

Need to do a fuel pressure test to see what you have. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjF3u2w2gAg

with the 5.4 engine violet/white--- tps reference gray/white ------ tps 1 signal orange/lt. blue -- tps signal return gray/red ----- signal return red/white ---- reference voltage with a 6.0 diesel tan--------ref. volts yel/white- apps 1 signal blk/org---- signal ret. white/red- apps 3 signal gray/blk--- apps 2 return white------- apps 2 signal blk/white-- aps2 hope this helps

Sounds like you have a supply vacuum problem. When you lose supply vacuum to the control head it defaults to defrost.

If your horn is not working and the fuse is still ok as you said. then you may need to check the relay attached between the steering button and the horn. Somewhere in between you may need to check also the wiring to make sure that it is not cut or broken.

I'm not sure of engine liter size? How long since a tune-up? I always check for codes, even if lite isn't on. Some of the national brand auto stores will check codes for free, if there are any, just tell them your lite has been going on and off. Use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. I can give you fuel pressure spec because I don't know liter size of engine? Some vehicles don't have Schrader valve on fuel rail, which makes checking fuel pressure a little awkward. If you have electronic returnless fuel system, you have a fuel pressure sensor, hopefully on the fuel rail. The yellow wire should be for fuel pressure, engine idling, use digital multimeter on yellow wire. 3 volts = 43.75 psi. 2 volts about 20 psi less. 4 volts about 20 psi more, so you get the picture. The basics for a rough idle, check for a leak of some kind, fuel--egr--vacuum leak.

Have you checked the wheel balance on the front wheels?

So do you have a question or are you just complaining?

low voltage problem is usually an earth problem check the earth straps, also the earth to the ecu.

I think first of all you need to verify that it is really overheating and isn't a sensor that has become faulty and is sending false information to the management computer that these days will drive the cooling fan, the temp gauge and any alarms. An obd scanner should show a similar coolant temp and air temp when the engine is cold and then register a fairly smooth increase after starting until it drops when the thermostat opens and begins to climb again until working temperature is reached and the cooling fan begins to cycle (if electric). A failure to register and then suddenly jump could be a faulty sensor but could also be indicative of a blocked degassing system or an excessive amount of gas in the cooling system. It is important to observe the engine during warmup and keep monitoring the heat of various hoses, the thermostat operation and so forth.

Sounds like 2 separate problems. The wrench light signifies that the truck goes into" limp home" mode and that there is a problem with your electronic speed control. As far as the truck pulling; is it doing it just driving without using the brakes? It could mean that you may need an alignment, tire rotation , low tire pressures or all of the above. Good luck to you

Get your own code reader and take it from there.

master cylinder fault,to brake pedal make sure there is freeplay at the master cylinder to brake peddle rod, if that is ok the bucket in the master cylinder is swollen and covering the oil return port. fit a new kit.

CHeck the earth returns on the instrument cluster. The behavior points to a loose electrical connection rather than a short or fuse.

drivers side mid point of transmission right where shift lever comes down to connect to it , neutral safety is there too