20 Most Recent 2004 Dodge Stratus - Page 9 Questions & Answers

jack up the car and take off the wheel. go through the trunk and remove the trunk liner from the wheel well area. remove the two nuts off either of the center, dont remove the center one yet. now you remove the bolt from the bottom of the strut and remove the strut assy. you can buy new struts as a complete assy. or you will have to use a spring compressor and compress the spring until it is loose from the spring pad, then remove the nut from the top of the strut and it comes apart. a lot of times the rear mount goes bad on these cars and it makes noise on the bumps. it doesnt mean the strut is bad. you can check the strut by pushing the rod in and pulling it out, there should be steady resistance. any easy spots and the strut is no good. gas struts should fully extend by themselves from the gas pressure, if they dont, they are bad.

if the engine missfires this will case the check engine light to come on. a scan tool can tell you which cylinder is missfiring

The "lifters" are valve lifter, not oil lifters. They are best described as hydraulic cushions. They use the engine oil pressure to expand and take up the slack between components. As the engine wears, clearances increase and the oil pressure decreases at idle. The ticking goes away with an increase RPM because the oil pressure increases. Using an additive like STP to thicken the oil some might stop it. It isn't uncommon or serious. I had a car once that had lifter noise unless I used Rislone detergent additive to keep varnish from building up around the lifter making it stick. The symtom of coolant in the oil is milkey foam. Some synthetic oils go in clear then turn red or purple. Relax and enjoy the next 100,000 miles. Keep the oil and air filter changed and watch for a leaking water pump. Overheating because the water pump seal or thermostat failed is the death of an older engine. If you want to be proactive, have these and the radiator hoses changed. Avoid a made in China water pump if possible.

Dear Betsys, unless you have a code for a cam sensor keep looking for other things that will make you feel better , fuel problems a GOOD TUNE UP (OH YA) air filers, plugs , plug wires, oil change ,get her ready for a long winter . ok Jasmin, take gook care of her. we here sometimes have a love hate relastionship with our car and trucks . and that\'s not a bad thing. Woody

NMo -not connected in any way. Check the wiring and vacuum hoses in the area.

There are two companies that I've heard of that make a bypass pulley. One is Dorman the other I can';t remember. Both require that the compressor be removed and the pulley replaces it so you can run the same belt and configuration. You'd need to check with your local parts house to see if they make one for your engine. Most factory systems don't allow for a bypass... the belt usually ends up hitting something and not working.

Watch the You Tube Video

If your speedometer has flipped completely over, (needle on backside of pin on gauge) then it should be a simple fix. First, press and hold down odometer reset button (on right side of instrument cluster). With key in ignition, click key forward (but don't start vehicle). This will put gauges in self test mode. This should throw needle back in correct position after test mode is complete. You can also look up gauge reset videos on Youtube. Good luck.

no it can only be run electrically unless you get a used seat that is manual and install

I didn't see the rest of this, but it sounds like it needs a new fan, maybe motor too. Depends on how it comes.

Hi Glenn, I'm glad to help! Glenn, BANK 1 means the # 1 spark plug side of the head, so which every side of the engine holds spark plug # 1 is the side of the vehicle the sensor is on. SENSOR 2 means it is the down stream 02 Sensor. This means that the sensor that's close to the engine is sensor 1 and sensor that's farther away from the engine is sensor 2. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Glenn.

2/1 O2 sensor is located on the front exhaust manifold (generator side).

Change distributer cap or clean inside. Ign module cud hav issues. Injectors also. Disconnect computer and clean the plug then see if it reboots

Get a Haynes manuel or a Chilton and read. Usually you allow the vehicle to heat up until the coolant system activates the thermostat and flushes fluid from radiator into motor and motor coolant into radiator for cooling. Like most newer vehicles you will have a coolant retainer with a cap, remove cap and add coolant to its max line allow the engine to continue flushing inbetween with a work glove on squese upper coolant main hose, feel for any air. If retainer is full and you feel no air the coolant system should be primed. In certain vehicles there will be a shrouder valve that looks like a stem to a bike tire with a cap on it. Usually located on the thermostat housing. Bleed air from circulating coolant system threw the shrouder valve. When no is escapes and fluid levels are at max your cooling system has been primed. Hope this helps best advice get a manuel... good luck

There should be a drain that allows the condensation to drain outside of the vehicle. Either the drain is clogged and causing the water to back up inside the plenum or your plenum has a crack in it and allowing the condensation to leak out the crack before it can be carried out of the drain. I suppose the drain line could be disconnected from the plenum also.

Repair Guides Specifications Torque Specifications AutoZone com If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/michael_2496c4f07ad24453