20 Most Recent 2001 Dodge Durango - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Smack it and see if it comes on. If it does then the motor brushes are bad. If it does not come on, check the fuses. If the fuses are ok, check the voltage on the plug to the motor.

Recheck the cam sensor and the wires that connect to it.

If you go to autozones website and make a free account, you can logon to that account and put in the year, make and model of your car and look for the free repair diagrams. They have the wiring diagrams. Then change the make and model year to the donor car and look for those diagrams.

mcdevito75 here, 3 seconds after the car stars I'll bet the idle goes way high, if so the fast idle swith / motor could be bad. Or if the idle goes way low, it could be the air Idle, sensor/ motor going bad. Either way have your local repair shop run a scan and see.

The c/v axle and output shaft on the front axle are worn where they spline together, they need to be replaced

The turn signals issue is most likely a fuse or the flasher. The blower issue is a bad blower motor resistor. As far as your running problem if you mean no start no lights, ect check your battery and alternator.

You sure it is coming from the lifters ? The injectors make the same kind of noise. But you can try changing the oil more often every three thousand miles is what is recommended instead of the five thousand like some people tell you. I have a 1998 dodge 5.2 with 199584 miles on it no problems changed oil every three thousand miles.

I Assume you have a 4.7 liter V8, have you taken the chains or gears off yet, if so, did you line everything up before disassembly and lock the gears with a locking fixture and chock the chains in the guides? yes, all the dots and marks matter. it is an interference engine which means if the cams are out of time with the crankshaft, severe valvetrain/piston damage can result when started. get out the manual and go over all the marks and be absolutely sure everything is exactly lined up before trying to start. turn the engine over by hand at least 2 full revolutions to check for interference , then recheck all timing marks again. before cranking with the starter motor. timing is critical on the 4.7, if its off, bad thing can happen, please take your time and be careful

It should be located behind left kick panel

Differential is bad and you will have to replace it. Find one cheap at a salvage yard.

Might be a faulty control module sometimes located in steering column. That's what was what wrong with my Chrysler and it was simiular problems.

Under hood front of engine driver side

look at top of the engine and there will be a bottle with a cap on it that is located next to a pulley with a belt on it.... undo the cap and there will be a short dipstick on it to check the level

sometime that code is telling you the cat is going bad

First of all, even though I don't think it has anything to do with it, fix the ground. These sensors were made of cheap plastic in those days if I recall correctly. Make sure it is installed right. Meaning that nothing turned while replacing it. Secondly, after replacing the sensor make sure there is a signal(power) from the ignition source.(ie, distributor or coil pack), third, unplug your battery for about a minute to give your phone a hard reset. It may take the computer a few starts to (learn) the new sensor. If everything is plugged in correctly, has power, and the computer has been reset, you very well may have gotten a faulty sensor which your auto parts will gladly replace. If this is the case, look on the bright side, it will come out a lot easier than the original even though it is in a tight spot. The 4.7 Durango had the sensor passenger side bell housing by head. Good luck.

could be starter, but not solenoid. do your belts squeel at all? May be a bad bearing on idler pulley or a/c clutch bearing.

Fault Code Definition

• Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input

What does this mean? The Intake Air Temperature Sensor measures the rise and fall of the air temperature inside the Intake Manifold. This provides critical data needed for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to control the Air Fuel Ratio, the Ignition Spark Timing and many components of the Emission Control Systems. Code P0113 sets when the voltage signal to the PCM from the Intake Air Temperature Sensor Circuit stays above 4.5 volts while the Coolant Temperature Voltage readings are rising and falling within an appropriate range. Symptoms

• Check Engine Light will illuminate
• In some cases, the engine may be hard starting and/or get poor fuel economy
• Poor engine performance/hesitation on acceleration

Common Problems That Trigger the P0113 Code

• Defective Intake Air Temperature Sensor
• Dirty air filter
• Defective Mass Air Flow Sensor
• Faulty or corroded Intake Air Temperature Sensor wiring or connections

Common Misdiagnoses

• Intake Air Temperature Sensor is replaced when the real cause is a dirty air filter
• Intake Air Temperature Sensor is replaced when the real cause is a poor connection or chafed wiring
• Intake Air Temperature Sensor is replaced when the real problem is in the Mass Air Flow Sensor
• P0113 Diagnostic Theory for Shops and Technicians
• When diagnosing a P0113 code, it is important to record the freeze frame information and then to duplicate the code setting conditions with a test drive while paying close attention to engine load, throttle position, RPM, and road speed on a data streaming scan tool. As you drive the vehicle, compare these values to the Intake Air Temperature Sensor PID or parameter ID. The Intake Air Temperature Sensor voltage values should rise and fall with changes in engine temperature. Compare the Intake Air Temperature or IAT readings to the Coolant Temperature Sensor readings, as they should move in tandem with each other. However, the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor will have a much higher temperature range. Check the IAT sensor connector with the key on and the engine off. There needs to be a steady 5 volt reference voltage and a very good ground. Find and use the proper engine performance wiring diagram to discern the proper color and position of these wires in the connector. It never hurts to do a key on-engine off voltage output test of the IAT sensor. Typically, I CAREFULLY use a heat gun to raise the temperature of the area around the sensor and study the change in values of the Intake Air Temperature. It's important to use the scan tool data stream as this will verify the IAT harness and connections.

junk yard.

the engine has to be the same and if you have 4 wheel drive, the replacement must have come from same. if its working, what kind of problems are you having?

just make sure capacity (shouldnt be a problem with your trailer) and height are correct for your trailer. Check out Harbor Freight for inexpensive solutions.