Top 20 1991 Dodge Dakota - Page 8 Questions & Answers

it takes 4 quarts, 4.5 with filter. v6 3.9 oil capacity.

Air Idle Solenoid-- on drivers side, at base of throttle body

Sounds like it has a vacuum leak or a bad Idle speed compensator.

Blower Motor REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Dakota

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the steering column cover, intermittent wiper control and the lower instrument panel module retaining screw to the right of the steering column.
3. Remove the center distribution duct retaining screws and panel support screw at the bottom of the module. Fig. 1: Heating/air conditioning unit components - Dakota models
   
   
4. Remove the courtesy lamp at the lower right corner of the module and the screw near the ash receiver.
5. Open the glovebox and remove the screws along the top edge.
6. Move the module out and down far enough to unclip the wiring harness and antenna cable and disconnect the speaker wire (if equipped with monaural radio) and glovebox light wire. Remove the module from the vehicle.
7. If the vehicle is equipped with air conditioning, disconnect the two vacuum lines from the recirculating air door actuator and disconnect the blower lead wires.
8. Remove two screws at the top of the blower housing, five screws from around the housing and remove the blower housing from the unit.
9. Remove three screw attaching the blower to the unit and remove the blower from the vehicle.
10. Remove the fan from the blower motor.
11. Installation is the reverse of removal. Secure all components accordingly and check the blower motor for proper operation.

Pick-Up and Ramcharger

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disconnect the blower wiring. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the heater assembly components for Pick-up and Ramcharger models
   
   
3. Remove the blower motor cooling tube. Fig. 3: Disconnect the wiring and cooling tube to access the blower motor - 1994-96 models shown
   
   
4. Remove the screws or retaining nuts retaining the blower plate to the housing. Fig. 4: Unplug the wiring harness connector to the blower motor
   Fig. 5: Unfasten the blower plate housing screws
   
   
5. Remove the assembly from the housing. Fig. 6: Lift away the blower plate housing for access to the blower motor
   
   
6. Remove the spring clip fastening the blower wheel to the blower shaft and pull off the wheel. Remove the blower from the plate. Fig. 7: Unclip and remove the blower wheel
   
   
7. Installation is the reverse of removal.

it sounds like it !! or you have a loose wire going to fuel pump. check the wires out to tank before repairing fuel pump. have a good day !!

If you have the 3.9 V-6, when looking at the engine as you stand in front of your truck. The smog pump is on your right. You will see one bolt running from the front to the rear of the smog pump on the left side. The bolt is about where nine o'clock would be on it if it were a clock. The bolt is a through bolt, and acts as the pivot. It must be loosened and completly removed.
On the right side, at the three o'clock position you will find the adjustment bolt. It comes from the rear of the smog pump to the front bracket. You will see that it does not have a regular looking nut. But, insteed what I call a trapped nut. A design that stops turning when tighten, or loosened by coming into contact with a part, or bracket. After you remove all of the related hoses, etc. the bolts can be removed allowing the smog pump to be removed. Installation is done in the opposite order. The v-belt is also tensioned by "swinging" the smog pump upward.

Don Fitzpatrick Washington, Ok.
Oklahoma Trailchasers 4X4 Club.

Just remove the plastic column cover
I think a long T 20 torx bit
Switch uses a torx I believe

Sounds like the head gasket is leaking.

Charlie

are you getting a spark at the points, remove the cap and look at the points for a spark there.
check that the rotor arm is turning it maybe your cam or belt that drives your rotor arm and pump has broke sounds suspect that there is not fuel also. check the fuel pump and see if it is pumping they are usually run off the same cam and timing. this maybe the problem.


i hope this was useful.

Replace the battery. Draining a car battery down completely will cause damage and decrease its capacity. If the battery was more than a couple of years old then it's time to replace.

sounds like you've been really trying, you say there is no power at the light bulb socket and you checked your switch at the transmission. did you check for power at the transmission. this will tell you if the problem is at the front of the truck or in the rear.

have you checked the fuse again after you replaced it to see if you blew it again ? the wiper motor might also be bad and that could have caused the original fuse blow.

c...

power wire is dark blue. There is no ground wire. Ground is taken from the chassis. See diagram below and let us know if you have more questions.

check inside distributor for wear or moisture, check fuses, relays, open line from filter towards front see if gas spews out or where fuel line comes to throttle body this is a single point fuel injection motor i believe, if those don't help, check to see if timing is correct..

It sounds like the alternator needs to be replaced. To be sure, take the alternator off and take it to a local parts store and they will check it for free. If you replaced the battery, then it just isn't charging. Try the alternator first, and let me know how that works.

There is vacuum switch on the transfer and you can remove the two vacuum lines on the front axle,
pass side and pull a vauum on canister, to test for the rod engaging,with wheels off ground,and turning them

On that truck, it doesn't get much easier

You just unbolt it

Use a 1/2" long ratchet or breaker bar to release the
tension pulley

go to google how to

most likely is the pick up coil in the distributor. easy to replace pull dist cap off and rotor button and there it is.