Top 20 1991 Dodge Dakota - Page 6 Questions & Answers

has to be the voltage regulator,silver box on the firewall about 4 inches tall 1 inch thick,abuot 3 inches wide 2 wire connector cliped on the face. To be sure disconnect the plug and start the truck,shouln't charge at all. Part is about 15 bucks 2 screws to change it,make sure it is well grounded ,clean surface well.

Hello
The ignition control module is part of the ECM engine computer which is located under the hood.

jsut put 15 amp everywhere,should be enough but to large to cause any problems.

You haven't given any amplifying information such as engine size, but I will give you a generic assessment as best I can based upon your symptom and experience with the Dodge family. The most likely culprit (and one of the cheaper options) in drop-dead cases, where no other issue exists (suh as overheating), is the crankshapt position sensor. They are prone to failure and will cause the computer to stop sending spark triggers and injector pulses. If you have no fuel or sprak, this is most likely the cause.

I had a 1992 dakota for 18.5 years

Have you put an amp meter in one of the battery cables,
to see if you have more than 30 Milli-Amps?

Only the computer & radio clock stay alive all night

Your alternator. Rebuilt how? Are the diodes leaking
& killing your battery?

What Codes do you have?
I will look in my 92 manual for you

Disconnect the alternator overnight

Next start pulling fuses with that meter in there, until
you find no current draw large enough to run a battery down

The ignition switch may be bad & powering the alternator field
all night. Have to check wiring diagrams for that

cud hav a shift linkage issue or other internal wear-u gutta classic car--they wernt as electronic as now--buy a repair book online or parts place for complete coverage--------got tools

Have you checked the timing belt ?'if that appears ok then check the ignition module which this older vehicle would have.

Go to AutoZone have them put it on there computer and clear the code....its FREE

Hi, If you can reach up behind the dash to unscrew the speedo cable that will be the hardest thing to do. the other is on the transmission side and is easier to undo. But if you have the newer style of speedo (electronic speed sensor) you will be opening another can of worms. The best thing there is to have a mechanic do this. Good luck.

You remove the fuel tank & replace the sending unit

Too old-- live with it,save your money

code 12 is diagnostic code for 'batt disconect'
tells mechanics if you have replace or removed battery
has to be another code in it
how does it work / drive?

The crank sensor is on the front of the engine it triggers off the front crank pulley. The pickup you changed is the Camshaft position sensor and will cause hard starting but not a complete no start. A picture of the Crankshaft position sensor is below.

Hello;Are there any service lights on in dash?It could be that the fuel pressure valve went bad,causing it to get to much fuel, and thats were the black smoke is coming from.

Check output from alternator with a voltmeter it should be between 13.8 to 14.7 if so then check at battery if it is not at least 13.8 minimum to be charging then the big wire on back of alternator is not getting back to the battery through ammeter gauge in dash.
I have hooked a wire from back of alternator straight to the plus[+] side of battery to fix that issue.
Sometimes ammeter gauge burns out breaking the circuit from the alternator back to the battery.

Try running fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank. A fuel injector might be stuck open, letting lots of fuel into the engine. Also try replacing your fuel pressure regulator, and inspect the fuel tank return lines.
Good luck
Matt

check for fuel leaks. from the gas tank, to the fuel lines, to the carb. i assume its an electronic throttle body 2 barrel. i have seen those leak internaly from the inside of the carb/throttle body causing exsess fuel to be used. you could also have a very bad fuel/air ratio going on there. could be bad o2 sensors. but i would start with the leaking fuel first.

Your truck has rims that are too wide. You might want to go down an inch or back to stock rims.

Check the relays...ASD for starters. They usually close to the battery.

LOOK ON THE UPPER PART OF TRANSMISSION BELL HOUSING

1995. Dodge dakota, 5.2 okay this is safe to say it has no alarm.For this year make and model there is a relay called ASD. The ASD supplies power to fuel pump the injector and power to ignition system now if it get shorted out it shut down and the no fire no pump situation.There is no fuse that blown if there was the fire on coil would not occur at all even during start up.Two things are happening the ignition switch is loosing contact,or the crank sensor due to the position it is at,it looses the ability to send a proper signal.. Now there is something about the first key try. Crank it and hold the ignition in the start area and dont just release it that quickly allow it to easily return your going to have hold slowly see if this solves it.If this doesnt solve it go to the crank sensor,here is where it is at its behind the cylinder head,on one of the 2 either passenger or driver side.make sure it is making good contact. Is it loose wiggle it if you have to gently though. If neither one of these 2 method get you know result your best solution will be to hot wire the vehicle and help trouble shoot it but dont leave this as a final repair it is just a troubleshooting tip not a repair okay. Get a long enough wire with a fuse inline with it attatch is a thin metal probe like a straightened out paper clip.(dont allow the paper clip probe to touch ground and if it does the inline fuse of this tool wont work unless you replace the fuse) youll have to find the coil there are two wires attatch to the coil one is dark green orange that do not disturb DRK GREEN -ORANGE is from the ECM do not probe it, The other is GREY that is from battery power the GREY is what you probe once it is probe wheather the key is on or off it turns on the ignition this test allows the testing of the ignition switch to maintain contact.Its rathere safer if you use a voltmeter