I, feel sorry for you, after reading your problem, but don't worry you visit the Reliable-Store they will help you for sure.They have repair manuals at a very less cost. Best Manuals
First you need to find out what the problem is. Find yourself a major parts dealer in the area you live like AutoZone or something similar. Ask them to but their diagnostics tool on your car and tell you the engine failure codes that it reads. They will do it for free. Come back on Fixya.com and write down all the engine codes they told you that you had. Sometimes they can only tell you the code number. Others on Fixya.com will look it up and let you know what needs to be done. It may be something simple or it could be complex. Hard to say right now. I hope this helps you.
20 amp would be the right fuse
the circuit would not be designed to run to 20amp outlets at the same time it indicates that at some point one of the plug in units has a dead short
None of the repairs work , If the system is not entirely flushed out, dryers, expansion valves and the like are replaced. If the original problem involved compressor failure, tiny bits of medal and debris may be still circulating in the system and casing other components in that system to fail. Someone does not know what they are doing.
Won't start how ? A crank - no start condition or a no crank - no start ? When you the the key an nothing happens , the starter doesn't engage an spin the engine - no crank - no start . When you turn the key an the starter engages an spins the engine but does not start an run - crank - no start . Now what is your doing ?
Im betting it may be a crankshaft position sensor thats on the way out. Most of the time vehicles will idle and start ok but under any load will spit, sputter, and have no power. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/cameron_6665f74c5d46fc23
Who told you ?
i was told the only thing left it could be is a bad ground wire but not positive i dont want to spend all the money to find which ground wire if it could be another problem or it there are any other solutions??
The charging system on your vehicle is computer controlled . GM calls it smart charging system . Running diagnostic check on all the modules on the vehicle may shed some light on the problem . Need a professional or factory scan tool to do this . The instrument cluster turns on the battery light when told by the BCM - body control module . A lot of complex electronic involved here , class 2 serial data communication network , modules sharing info on this network . It's hard to under stand whats happening when you don't know how all works .
Charging System Indicator
The body control module (BCM) sends a message to the IPC via the serial peripheral interface (SPI) requesting illumination. The IPC illuminates the charging system indicator when the following occurs:
• The PCM detects that the generator output is less than 11 volts or greater than 16 volts. The BCM receives a class 2 message from the PCM requesting illumination. The also BCM sends a class 2 message to the radio in order to activate an audible warning.
• The IPC performs the displays test at the start of each ignition cycle as commanded by the BCM. The indicator illuminates for approximately 3 seconds.
• The PCM determines that the ignition is on, with the engine off or the ignition is in the accessory position. The BCM receives a class 2 message from the PCM requesting .
GM also had instrument cluster problems 2003 to 2006 . Buy a used one for $ 20.00 bucks at a automotive salvage yard an see if that fixes the problem . Without testing , check codes , this is just a guess .
Are You Smarter Than Smart Charging System MOTORVoltage Drop Testing the Charging System
You need to strip the engine down and check the top of the block (deck) for cracks and have it resurfaced, Do the same for the cylinder heads, check them for vcracks and have them resurfaced. Use felpro gaskets.
