20 Most Recent 2000 Chevrolet Venture - Page 8 Questions & Answers

I had the same problem about 5 yrs ago with mine .I removed the pink permanent antifreeze .flushed the system. replaced the thermostat with a FAILSAFE THERMOSTAT .. The thermostat cost about 2x as much as a regular one ..replaced the permanent antifreeze with the old type the green 50-50 mix and no more problems..hope this helps

I would start at the left brake light. Check the bulb and wiring. Your brake light could be grounding through the blinker circuit.

According to the wiring diagram, there are only three components to the system. The blower motor, the resistor, and the speed control switch.The resistor gets power from the switch which is powered by a 25amp fuse. On high setting the resistor is bypassed and the blower motor gets power from a 30amp circuit breaker. The blower is grounded to the body. The fuse is hot in the "run" position and the 30amp breaker is hot all the time.So you should have power at the blower motor on one of the settings and a direct ground on the black wire.

Iz that what does wrk on there?

There are detailed instructions in the the manual. If you do not have a manual, here is how to do it (directions assume removing drivers-side headlight assembly and viewing the area from the front of the van): Remove the thumb screw on the left side of the headlight assembly as well as the thumb screw on the top of the head light assembly. The third thumb screw simply anchors the turn-signal assembly to the head light assembly. Initially, just loosen that screw. The whole assembly is now loose but still held in by two plastic posts on the bottom of the headlight assembly and two plastic posts on the end of the turn-signal assembly closest to the fender/wheel area. Pull the whole assembly kind of up, out, and down. It takes a bit of juggling but it will come out. Once the whole assembly is out you can separate the turn-signal assembly from the head light assembly and put the headlight assembly back in place. To separate the assemblies remove the third thumb screw (if its too tight to remove by hand you will need a Torx screw driver of size T-30; if you don't have a Torx a small flathead screw can work); also, you will notice the hidden clip that is the final anchor holding the turn-signal assembly to the head light assembly. Use a flat-head screw driver to release it. Now the units should be separated. To remove the turn signal bulb socket from the turn-signal assembly, simply turn it counter-clockwise while pressing down on the safety clip and pull it out of the back of the turn-signal assembly. The owners manual lists the type of bulb. It should be an amber 3157. The bulb pulls straight out of the socket.

Replace the bulb. Place the socket back into the turn-signal assembly (turn it clockwise until the safety clip snaps). Replace the Headlight assembly (two thumb screws and the two plastic alignment posts anchor it), but do not tighten the screws until the turn-signal assembly is in place. Replace the turn-signal assembly by first aligning the plastic posts and then anchoring it to the head light assembly with the third thumb screw. Make sure everything is aligned properly and tight all the thumb screws. An experienced person can probably make this change, start to finish, in 15 minutes. First timers will probably take 30 minutes as it takes some time to understand how the designers anchored everything.

Good luck and thank you for using Fixya

2 Screws hold it in Place. There is a Cable that releases it. I am not sure what you are asking.... Can you buy a replacement Door?You can not get it Open?It will not stay shut?Please provide me with some additional information

Jerking usually indicates a misfire , spark plugs and wires take care of it most of the time.

Here's a link to your P0171 code.

check to see if turn signal switch is working properly

Physically look in the radiator under the cap(if one exsist's) when cool, for coolant level, and check the valve in the cap for sticking. If air is present in the radiator it can't get out, and more coolant can't get in,(from the overflow). Either clean the cap or replace it and check that it is the CORRECT cap.

If radiator is low on coolant fill it to overflowing, replace cap, and check that coolant overflow is filled to the COLD line or mark. The overflow is normally where you would add coolant. (never overfill the overflow)After refilling as outlined above, check the level every morning for 2 or 3 days until coolant level stops dropping below the cold mark and add coolant to the overflow ONLY. Do not open the radiator cap. Also, if you have even a tiny coolant leak anywhere in the system, air will get drawn in, instead of coolant from the overflow.

For more OVERHEATING PROBLEMS try these...Radiator fins dirty, clean with a strong stream of water, not high pressure water.Radiator clogged, try backflushing it, or replace.Thermostat stuck open or shut, replace it. Or installed BACKWARDS.Water pump worn out, can no longer move enough coolant, replace it.Fan shroud broken or missing....Electric Fan(s) not working, Check the fan, relay, fuse and engine temperature sensor's.Belt driven fan, belt slipping, fan clutch is bad, fan blades have flattened out.Air dam under front bumper is gone, loose, or broken. It actually has a purpose other than scraping on the driveway or curbs. It forces air up into and thru the condenser and radiator. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place making it useless or blocking the airflow. Along with that, there may also be a plastic piece attached to the bottom of, and wraps up behind the bumper. If it's loose, airflow can actually push it out of place blocking the airflow. Simply reattach it with 4 or 5 screws.Also, if the vehicle has A/C and electric fans, one fan is dedicated to the A/C and should come on almost the instant the A/C is turned on. The engine fan will run even with the key off, that is normal. The system is trying to cool itself. Hope this helps.

it's called a shift actuator / detent cable you can get one at a Auto Parts store .

code p0131 refers to heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) bank 1 low voltage. possible causes ---Exhaust leak wiring short to ground HO2S ans ecm I would check the wires are not touching the exhaust then replace the sensor with a genuine one as the settings may be different on an after market one giving a false code.Code p0300 refers to random / multiple cylinder/s --- misfire detected. Possible causes include Spark plug/s--- HT leads---injectors--- ignition coils----low compression and wiring

If you have two different warning lights, it could be a wiring problem.The low oil pressure warning could come on even if the engine is full of oil. If that is the only light coming on, it could be the sending unit or you could actually have low oil pressure.