20 Most Recent 1995 Buick LeSabre - Page 3 Questions & Answers

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Sounds more like a linkage problem. How does it drive once its in gear?

Vehicle handbook often contains fuse details and repair manuals contain a more general overview. It will probably be necessary to test each fuse but removing the fuses for test should be avoided in order to ensure any accumulated memory in the electronics is maintained along with the radio code and possibly immobiliser code. Very few fuses are completely insulated and most can be tested without removal using a slim pointed probe and a test lamp or buzzer. I have used an old air brake warning buzzer for many years because it draws enough current to indicate dirty connections that defeat voltmeters and electronic testers. A home-made test lamp with a large-ish bulb is equally effective but without the handy audible bit. Ground one side of the tester and place the probe onto one end of the fuse and then the other. If current is detected on both ends of the fuse the circuit is live and the fuse ok. Repeat with all the fuses. If both ends are dead then switch on the lights or ignition and/or each accessory as applicable until all the fuses have been checked. When you discover a fuse that is live at one end and dead at the other you have found a culprit.

look for pressure switch on power steering pump or power steering pressure hose dirty or sticking idle air control

I found this info in your owners manual, if it won't work, I can't help you. Sorry.

Should be on the right side of the engine under the exhaust crossover pipe by the thermostat housing.

# 4 fuse top panel

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There are 2, one in the engine compartment on the firewall and one under the dash on the driver's side.

Assuming the light is not flashing, you probably have a bad decoder module and that will require a new, unused module to resolve it.If it's flashing it could be a key or key sensor issue.

Of course it comes back on if the failure that caused it was not repaired. You just need a shop with enough skill to find the issue and repair it.

What did you replace with used or new pcm ? has to be programed . Important:: Replacement PCM must be programmed. Refer to Powertrain Control Module Replacement/Programming In 95 they used UART serial data pin 9 at DLC a tan wire.No class two yet.

I get that you can't turn it off, but what do you mean you cant "set" it? It's either on or off. When it's on (which sounds like all the time) does it work - defog/defrost the back window. If you can't turn it off, your choices are to either leave it on all the time (which may run your battery flat eventually) or replace an obviously bad switch. . .

Let car cool down then check coolant level. If it is low it won't allow coolant to pass through the heater core. If it is ok it could be stuck thermostat or bad heater core. If lines coming out of heater core are hot on both hoses it is good, if only one is hot then it is a plugged heater core. You can take hoses off and use a water hose to flush out heater core from one hose then back the other way through the other hose. Hope this helps!

Take a test light and clip the end to a good ground and probe the small contact on the starter solenoid. Have someone turn the key to the crank position, making sure you are clear of all moving engine parts. If the test light-lights when the key is in the crank position, then it is most likely the starter needs replacing. If if does not, then I would look at the start fuse or look over the wiring for a bad spot or bad connection.

I would be looking at the starter and the starter solenoid (mounted on top of the starter). Your symptoms don't point to a relay, but to the starter combination.

Are you saying it cranks good, but, won't start or the starter motor won't even crank?

Possible broken wiring in the drivers door where the wiring exits the door and enters the vehicle located in the rubber flex boot. Continuous opening/closing of the door flexes the wiring and can cause it to crack/break resulting in some of the power functions not to operate

Follow the radiator hose to the engine. It goes to the thermostat housing. At the throttle body, look to the left of the housing, down it the hole is the temp sensor. You'll see the wires running to it.