20 Most Recent 1988 Volkswagen Cabriolet Questions & Answers

May be the oil pump is failing, stretched timing chains. How many miles are on the engine?

I would replace the oil pressure sending unit first and see if that corrects this.

Test for power to the relay and then to motor.

you dont,,,,first replace the oil presher sender switch if the oil light and buzzer are still on then use an oil presher gauge to check that there realy is oil presher in the engine if there is presher look for a fult in the wireing

I'd try cleaning the injectors with ultrasonic technology, like so:
You can do this in almost every work shop.

A more specific and detailed question would be helpful in assisting you. I owned one of these for over 15 years and just recently sold it. I might be able to help, just need more info. What conditions does this occur? i.e., at idle, while driving at speed, what do the guages indicate (there is a batter indicator in the instrument cluster and one just below the radio. Take note of what's happening before, during, and after the event. Typically it is always going to be a simple diagnosis once some info is provided. Good luck!

MY 1996 VW CABRIO HAS A HIGH OIL PRESSURE THE SWITCH IS BLOING OFF AND LOOSING OIL ANY IDEA IS IT JUST A REPLACE THE PART KIND OF JOB.. THANK YOU

Hi there:You will have to pinpoint what the engine is missing... Spark / Fuel /Compression.All three of these are tested when the engine is being cranked over. There are two way of checking for fuel. Fuel pressure and fuel trigger. Both are very important and must be present for the engine to start. Fuel pressure is self explanatory. You just hook up the gage and see what the reading is. Fuel trigger is check with a noid light. The injector gets unplugged and the noid light gets plugged in to the injector clip. With the engine cranking over, this light must blink. This is the signal to the injectors from the computer. You can have all the fuel pressure in the world, but it wont matter if the injector is not pulsing gas into the cylinder like it should.Compression tester, spark tester, fuel pressure gage and noid light are all accessible at your local auto store. All three tests play a very important part in diagnosing a no start condition. Be extremely careful when doing these tests.Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

Do you have the assembly off the car? If you do, do you know anyone with a press? That will move the splines of the CV joint after you properly support the flange hub. If not, you need the type of puller with a yoke that accepts the wheel bolts to attach it to the hub. Then you can apply enough force safely. The hub is very tough, you can wind on a lot of force. If you are attempting to change a front wheel bearing you WILL need a press anyway. It can be done with BIG hammers but you risk damaging parts.

Hi Sean, If we're talking about the engine and not the gearbox it is advisable to remove the sump, as when refitting it you can make sure that the sump gasket is not damaged. Its a lot easier than needing to do the job over to fix a leakage from the gasket. Regards John.

none of the answers given are even about this problem. I too need an answer to this. I have a ton of sediment in my tank and I need to clean it out. how do I do that?

Your throttle body is probably dirty,The throttle body has a hose from the air filter housing attached to it,the throttle body is attached to the intake phlenum.Take the hose off(its rubber with a clamp on it).Do this with a cold engine, NOT RUNNING ! spray some carburetor cleaner inside the venturi and scrub it with a toothbrush,on the side of the throttle body there is a place where a cable goes into,twist the direction of cable to open the throttle plate(inside the throttle body),and continue to clean.Now put it all back together.What happens over a period of time is the Throttle body gets clogged with carbon and cannot breath at idle, the throttle plate when close(at idle)has a very small air gap and cant breath when dirty.If this does not cure your problem,then you will need to consider having your ais motor check.ais= automatic idle speed motor.For this you will have to take the throttle body off to replace it and the screws have been installed with locktight and are tricky to get out.Hope this helps,I did not know what year or make of car, but its a common problem since the fuel injectors took the place of the carburetors.

• ** Be careful that any cleaners used are for Fuel Injected systems and are O2 sensor safe. Some Carburator Cleaners can damage FI components.**
• Spraying a throttle body spray cleaner, such as one sold by STP, to clean the throttle body, then starting up and revving the engine, may be enough to dislodge the carbon deposits and material blocking the airway. The original poster's solution is the cheap and easy way to handle this problem of low engine RPM causing stalls. Try it first, it is a fast fix, and it worked for me, causing my engine RPM to go up above the stalling level when my car was idling at a stop sign or red light.
  

Read more: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_causes_an_engine_to_stall_at_idle_but_run_fine_over_1000_rpm#ixzz1CI04ViFN

you have a leaking heater core

if you explained what you mean by definition of intake boot i might be able to help as this model of car we do have here in europe so they are the smae but iam lost for words here as intake boot has no meaning to your truely so please describe exactly what you mean

most gas tanks have to be siphoned out using small narrow tubes