20 Most Recent 1998 GMC Sonoma - Page 5 Questions & Answers

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Shifter shifts but trans doesnt

check on the side of tran it may have come lose
9/21/2013 9:33:39 PM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Sep 21, 2013
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Fuel pump wiring diagram

I have seen the ground wire rust off on an S10. You may have power to the fuel pump, but no completed circuit to the frame. You may be surprised to find a bad ground will cure your issue.
8/20/2013 2:51:16 AM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Aug 20, 2013
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Engine sputters and backfires

What have you checked so far ?Is the check engine light staying on ?Have you checked base fuel pressure with a gauge ?
4/10/2013 11:56:04 PM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Apr 10, 2013
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1998 sonoma won't start

Your Battery is Corroded or Bad.... Pull your Battery, Clean the Terminals, Charge your Battery and have it tested and if it is bad, replace it. If it is Good, then Clean the Terminals and the Post REALLY GOOD and reinstall and your problem will go away. If your Battery is Good, test your Alternator. Your Battery should have 12.6-12.8 Volts. When it is Running, it should be 13.4-14.6 Volts Depending on your Alternator and Voltage Regulator
4/7/2013 2:36:52 AM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Apr 07, 2013
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ENGINE OVERHEATED , OIL IN THE RESERVIOR

Sounds very much like a blown gasket. To help diagnose, pull the dipstick and see if you can tell if any anti freeze in oil. Pull oil filler cap, check it for residue. Finally, look in the crankcase (under the valve cover) to see if you notice a "milkshake" looking discoloration to engine oil. When a headgasket does "blow" it allows air to enter the coolant system causing pressurization. It also allows anti freeze to enter the affected cylinder, and oil to enter into the cooling system or coolant to enter the oil.. Another sure way to self diagnose HG is to run engine to operating temp, check exhaust for white smoke (steam) and a sweet smell (anti freeze) . Also a severly blown gasket would allow a noticeable loss of coolant. If none of these symptoms are present, you might look elsewhere such as faulty water pump, bad radiator cap. The absolute best way to check for a blown gasket is to do a cylinder leak down test. This is where a device which screws into where the park plug goes is attached and forced air is injected into each cylinder. The readings will indentfy exactly which cylinder is affected by the loss of gasket material to the cooling jacket and this of course, would be where pressurized air and coolant entering combustion area and oil delivery occurs. This isn't an expensive test either. There are two schools of thought on HG repair: optimum replace it. Others have gotten good results with head gasket repair chemicals which plug the leak or break in the gasket. Do your own reasearch and of course, it is up to you if the cost of a head gasket repair, the possible damage already done (depends on exactly how hot engine got) vs. what the vehicle is actually worth. I've known prices to replace the HG to range from 600 and up. I've also known a repaired HG to blow again within a few thousand miles. If you do replace th HG, check around. Depending on how hot the engine got, you may have warped the head and it must be checked for warping or possibly, cracking in order for the new gasket to "hold" If either, it has to be machined which will add to the total cost. A mistake people often make is to fix a vehicle for sentimental reasons. I'd say if there are no other issues and the vehicle has given you good service up to now, it may be worth it. Bt a very high mileage, poorly maintained vehicle usually is NOT worth the cost of a major repair. Then again, some vehilces have a known history of HG failure: certain year model Caddilacs, Subarus, Range Rovers Toyotas etc- ALL have documented histories of a "design flaw" which causes HG failure, mostly steel bolts set into an aluminum block. Check your specifc year and make onlne. Find a reliable mechanic. I f after you do some self diagnosing, you think it IS the HG, do the leak down test first. Then make your best decision.
2/28/2013 1:20:33 PM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Feb 28, 2013
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Air and heat blower will not come on. 1998 sonoma 2.2l

start by checking fuse. if fuse is good, aquire a test light, check the test light on the battery to make sure the test light works. Power to ground = light. access blower motor under pass-side dash panel.(probablly have to remove underdash cover, secured with pop-in style fasteners.) locate blower motor. 2 wires w/connector Purple-power, black-ground. check for power at purple w/test light on known good ground, with ign on, and blower switch on high. if it has power, hook clip of test light to a power source, ( + on battery w a jumper wire) and probe black wire, with test light. if no light, jumper that wire to a good ground. if it lights, you have a bad b-motor. if no light on power side of blower motor, and fuse is good, check power to swith. blower circuit may have 2 fuses. 1 for high and a 2nd for the lower speeds. if switch has power to it, and power is transfered to another wire when switched, suspect the blower motor resistor. James White, White Automotive, Hopkins Mo. ASE tech, 17 yrs exp.
2/6/2013 11:46:32 PM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Feb 06, 2013
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Wont start

unhook battery pos and neg touch both cables together to decharge computers and clear eng lights touch together for 1 min. Then hook cables back to battery try to start hope that helps MAKE SURE BOTH CABLES ARE OFF BATTERY if that does not work it could be a ignition switch or cyinder make sure you get it scanned for codes to deterime that.
1/31/2013 12:15:16 AM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Jan 31, 2013
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I have a 1998 gmc sonoma truck with the 2.2

It could also be the coil, if there is no spark the engine won't run. The distributor could also have a fault causing it to not start.
1/8/2013 11:36:11 PM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Jan 08, 2013
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98 gmc sonoma heat works of and on

All kinds of things to look at.Start with coolant level in radiator. Very often if the radiator is low, the heater will not work, or work well, because if there is air in the system, air will rise to the top, leaving the heater core with an air bubble. Whenever you replace any hose on the car, you must run the engine with the heater on at a medium high RPM (1500 RPM) for a while (5-10minutes) to "burp" the air from the system.You'll need to make sure the system is full of coolant after that.Then there could be a partly plugged radiator, a pinched or crimped heater hose, or the heater control might not be allowing the hot water to flow fast. Be sure to test the temperature of the radiator, to be certain the thermostat is keeping the radiator coolant at near 200 degrees. A thermometer in the top of the radiator will tell you. If you have a sealed system, you might VERY carefully feel all the hoses to determine the heat inside the radiator after the motor has been running for 10-15 minutes. Thermostats can get stuck in the "open" position, requiring replacement before you will get heater heat.
1/5/2013 6:37:23 AM • 1998 GMC Sonoma • Answered on Jan 05, 2013
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