20 Most Recent 1998 GMC Sierra - Page 8 Questions & Answers

you can put it on the stove at the same time

Replace the sensor as it is not controlling the correct fuel ratio. Recheck for more moisture in the cap as the water is in the distributor and will evaporate up and affect the spark process.

Did u check your fuel filter sounds like it might be clogged.take your fuel line off the side going to the engine then crank the engine to see if fuel comes out of it.

cap ,rotor ,spark plug wire , spark plug could misfire....the check engine light flash because it's a severe misfire and fuel go to converter catalyst.

when was the box oil last changed? low or weak oil will make this happen. think it is recommended you change this oil 8-10 years 15 is max on most boxes.

First, check your alternator/serpentine belt for breakage/integrity. If you successfully re-started the engine after this incident, but your "volts" gage did not register as charging, your problem is likely alternator/belt-related.

How long has it been since the brakes have been replaced? Different weather conditions can cause some brake noise, but when your brakes get worn down to a certain point, they will also make noise, at which point they should be replaced.

Anti-lock Brake System light. could be sensor, might need brake work or could be wiring sorry for being so vague

where is the leak comin from gearbox or line

P0238 = Turbo/Super charger boost sensor 'A' Circuit Highhttp://www.dieselplace.com/forum/63-gm-diesel-engines/40-duramax-second-generation-2004-5-2005-lly/153584-need-kinda-quick-help-p0238-code.html

Its fairly easy, you dont have to replace the fittings at the cooler. if they are leaking up at the cooler, it needs to be replaced, but if not, its just simple line to line, not too long of a process

please rate well! hope this gives you the info you needed!

What did you do if anything to create this issue?? Brake work of any kind? If so you need the dealer to bleeed the ABS unit which requires a special tool.

If it's all 3,there is a switch near the top of the linkage on your brake pedal on the backside.If that sensor/switch goes bad,your lights will not work.If you have any questions or need more help,just comment here and I will get an autolink to your post and reply ASAP.Greg

Are you saying they are not getting spark, or not producing power ?

I USE WATER HOSE IN FRONT BUT TO SEE IF ITS CONDENSOR YOU CAN TAKE FLASH LIGHT POINT AT IT SEE IF YOU CAN SEE COME THROUGH RAD WHEN YOU REPLACE THE COMPRESSER DID YOU REPLACE ORFICE TUB IT COULD BE PLUGED IS IN LINE WITH HOSE LITTLE SCEEN IN THERE GETS CLOGGED

Testing of the fuel and ignition systems is in order. Intermittent problems need testing when the problem is present, otherwise it won't help find the problem.I would start by checking for spark on a spark plug wire (or two or three plug wires, in case it may be a bad coil), during those times when it won't start. You need to see a blue, snapping spark to verify ignition system is working.To check the fuel system, have the fuel pressure checked, and the injector circuit checked. Good that you hear the pump, but you don't know if fuel pressure is correct, or if fuel is getting into the cylinders. One short test is to spray starting fluid or carb cleaner into the intake while engine is cranking. If engine fires up for a few seconds, you know it is a gas related problem.If ignition system is the intermittent problem, could be failing coil or coils, ignition module, crank position sensor, even the computer, or a wiring problem like a bad connection. Testing of each component will be required, or you could start throwing new parts at it, like many people do, until you find the bad part. Find a reputable mechanic-there still are a few, lol.

You can remove the front bed bolts & loosen the rear ones,& tip up the bed or remove thetank straps & drop the fuel tankYou Tube Video has the procedure to watch