20 Most Recent 1987 GMC Jimmy Questions & Answers

Are you sure it's a "no spark" condition? might be fuel?

to really help i would need to hear the engine running as spot guessing would cost a lot to replace parts and you don't want to be replacing parts that are not need, could i ask has the cams been checked, if so is there any flat spots. when the engine is running is it tip tip tip from the cams or tap tap tap. while on idle. any more info would help to identify the problem even cleaning the injectors more info would be help full

Have a word with Mechanics at local Dealer

If you mean the blade itself and not the whole arm, do you have the original Pin type where it looks like a Pin pushed into a whole in the side of the blade? If so, it's a press fit so you can use a small flat blade screwdriver and gently pry between the arm and the blade at the Pin. Pull on the blade as you twist the screwdriver side to side to get past the press 'bump' inside the hole. It literally does just pull off of the arm, just need to wiggle and lots of strength sometimes.

Ignition control module.

From what you are describing, I would say that the head gasket could be the cause. You have water and oil passages that run through the heads. If the gaskets have deteriorated, it will allow the oil and water to mix.

Is the coil getting power and a ground pulse from the ignition module ? ?

Anything can go bad, but to my knowledge circuit breakers seldom do. If you have a test light, pull the circuit breaker and probe both terminals for a power signal, with the key on. One terminal should show voltage with key on. If not, check the power distribution box for a blown maxi-fuse, or the wiring from that box to your fuse panel.BTW, no, no relays are in the window circuit. So if the circuit breaker has power to it, put it back in and check for power on the driver's door master switch-one wire on the master should have voltage with key on. If no hot wire to the master switch, check inside the door openings for a broken wire. If you do have one hot wire there. check the power windows ground-the ground wire for the power windows originates at the master switch and goes back into the cabin to a nearby ground. Put one lead of the test light on the hot wire (key on), and probe the ground terminal at the master switch-if your ground is good, the test light will light up. If the ground is lost, no light. Check for a broken ground wire in the door opening, and/or find the ground and see if it is bad. If the master switch has a hot wire and a good ground wire, replace the master switch.

One of 2 things...Transfer Case thinks it is in NeutralYou had a Internal Failure inside the Transmisison

You need to run a fault code test, read at the link below how to do thishttp://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm-2-digit-obd-codes-free.php

Check the fuel pressure, could be the fuel pump

Should be in the box near the battery.

Have you checked the fuel pump relay to see if the pump is getting power ?Can you start the engine with starting fluid ?

Scan it with an obd1 and rest the codes

The cat converter is mainly for emission controls. If you are in a state that does not due emission tests like I do(MN), you can remove that cat conv with no problems other than a little more polution.