2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. Is your security light flashing? It sounds like the engine immobilizer is activated.

How do I reset my 2003 chevy silverado security system?

Vehicle History https://www.vehiclehistory.com > questions > how-do-... Apr 9, 2020 - The first thing You need to do is open the driver's side door, and sit down inside. Next, place Your key in the ignition, and turn it to the on ... 6 answers · Top answer: Resetting the 2003 Chevrolet Silverado security system is easy, and takes about 5 to 10 minutes. The first thing You need to do is open the driver's side ...

How do I Reset the Theft Deterrent System "The Sequence?"

Diesel Place https://www.dieselplace.com > ... > Electrical Dec 26, 2008 - Try This: · 1. Put the key into the keyway and turn it to the ON (RUN) position. · 2. Within 1 minute after the indicator light goes off, turn the ...

Gmc Sierra 1500: I need to reset the security on my 2004 gmc

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > GMC Questions Jan 10, 2013 - 30 minute GM relearn procedure: 1-Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. 2-Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON ( ... 1 answer · Top answer: HI, What is happening - is the security light staying on and truck not starting, or is the ...

How do you reset the computer and or the passlock, anti

JustAnswer https://www.justanswer.com > Chevrolet Repair Jan 4, 2010 - Bump the key into the start position then leave it in the on position for 10 minutes, after 10 minute shut vehicle off for 5 seconds and ... 1 answer · Top answer: Ok, let me know. Thanks ..

Here try this its #6 same as federal

lines not in the correct ports low pressure hoses are clamped high pressure are screwed in some how there is a cross porting causing the lock up problem and that is putting high pressure into the low pressure port

if the leaks are not evident in the engine bay , it could be the heater in the cabin

big difference between steering box and gear box as the date is now November , it is out of warranty take it to an accredited service center and have the problem properly identified and diagnosed

Do you maybe have the dimmer control turned low.

What fluid did you use?

you will have to take it to a specialist near you. nothing else you can do.

not a fuel pump but an electronic problem from a start isolator or a brake sensor problem

get the standard wiring design http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/wiring-diagrams Yellow is the left turn signal on pin 2 Check trailer plug and see if correct colors used on trailer plug Would suggest getting a 12volt probe so you can test the car socket when left indicator is going on - flashing To check that the correct pin has 12volts flashing left on it.

There are two power wires to the DDM - drivers door module .Both are orange ,one is powered by a fuse DDM fuse 15amp . in the left I/P fuse block , plus LT DOORS 25amp circuit breaker . Power Mirror System Components The power mirror system consists of the following components: • The driver door module--Class 2 module with integrated switches and requires programming when replaced • The passenger door module--Class 2 module with integrated switches, requires programming when replaced and also contains the RFA receiver • The power mirror direction switch--Integrated into DDM and is a 4-position momentary switch that provides a signal input to the DDM for up, down, left/extend and right/retract with a mirror switch activation • The mirror select switch--Integrated into DDM and is a 3-position switch that allows the operator to select the left or right mirror and also a neutral/fold position • The left outside power mirror--Contains both the vertical and horizontal mirror motors and is serviced as a complete mirror assembly • The right outside power mirror--Contains both the vertical and horizontal mirror motors and is serviced as a complete mirror assembly • The body control module--Class 2 module that requires programming when replaced, serves as the power mode master and is the main message handler • The DDM 10A fuse--Located in the I/P fuse block and is hot at all times • The PDM 10A fuse--Located in the I/P fuse block and is hot at all times • The memory switch, if equipped with memory mirrors--Supplied power by the DDM and provides a voltage signal to the DDM upon a switch activation • The horizontal and vertical position sensors, if equipped with memory mirrors--Supplied a 5-volt and low reference by the DDM/PDM and provide a variable voltage signal to the DDM/PDM that is proportional to mirror position • The park neutral position switch, if equipped with memory mirrors--Provides transmission gear selection information to the PCM and is used for memory recall and mirror tilt in reverse functions • The powertrain control module, if equipped with memory mirrors--Class 2 module that requires programming when replaced and provides Class 2 message indicating transmission gear selection • The driver information center (DIC), if equipped with memory mirrors--Part of the instrument cluster which is a Class 2 module that requires programming when replaced and is used to personalize the memory recall and mirror tilt in reverse functions • Fold motor in each of the outside mirrors, if equipped with power fold mirrors--Provides extend and retract movements of the mirror and is serviced as a complete mirror assembly Each of the outside power mirrors contains 2 reversible motors to provide horizontal and vertical movement of the mirror glass. The vertical motor operates the up and down directions and the horizontal motor operates the left and right directions. If equipped with power folding mirrors, each outside power mirror will contain a reversible fold motor to operate the extend and retract functions. Each of the mirror motors are circuit breaker protected. Do you know what DTC'S are ? Diagnostic trouble codes DTC B1544, B1600, or B1605 DTC B1580, B1590, B1610, or B1620 • If DTC B1580 is set by itself, the left horizontal position sensor signal circuit maybe open, shorted to ground or battery • If DTC B1590 is set by itself, the left vertical position sensor signal circuit maybe open, shorted to ground or battery • If DTC B1610 is set by itself, the right horizontal position sensor signal circuit maybe open, shorted to ground or battery • If DTC B1620 is set by itself, the right vertical position sensor signal circuit maybe open, shorted to ground or battery. • If DTCs B1580 and B1590 are both set, the left 5 volt reference or low reference circuit(s) maybe open, shorted to ground or battery. • If DTCs B1610 and B1620 are both set, the right 5 volt reference or low reference circuit(s) maybe open, shorted to ground or battery. Need a factory scan tool to test ! Install a scan tool. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. With the scan tool, observe the mirror horizontal and vertical position parameters in the Driver Door Module (DDM) and Passenger Door Module (PDM) data lists. Operate both the left and right mirrors through the full range of movements. Does the scan tool indicate that the left and right mirror horizontal and vertical position parameters are within the specified range? 0.50-4.75 V. Your best bet , take it to a GMC , Chevy , buick or cadillac dealer

maybe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihIR7tssfJs Hope this helps

Fuses? Frayed wiring?

Take it to an Auto transmission service center and give the box a full service and they also should fix the problem

If this is "fly by wire" throttle, any misalignment between gas pedal and TPS will cause this issue. Failure of the gas pedal sender is so common Lokar company makes a replacement pedal unit that is much better than stock.

It could be the sensor on the top of the dash,fuse, relay, or the BCM

sounds like theft proof issue. Make and Model would help.

If the speedometer works, but the odometer does not, the problem is in the cluster. If the speedometer and odometer do not work, you should have a check engine light and the trouble code will probably be for the speed sensor in the transmission.

I've not run across this but let's apply some basic logic. 1. WHICH relay causes the problem to go away. Not like to be all of them. It's possible that something internal in the relay is "reconnected" when you push down. 2. Inspect that relay where it plugs in for evidence of excessive heat to the connectors or around the perimeter. If it's warped it may not seat correctly and you may have an electrical ground problem 3. Things shrink when they are cold it is just possible that the relay body or connector has "shrunk" some? Just some thoughts Good luck!