20 Most Recent
2003 GMC Sierra 2500HD - Page 8 Questions & Answers
RFA 1 Battery Low
Hello: You need to change battery. On the end where it attaches to your key ring you will see a slot. Take a penny insert into the slot it that will cause the two halves to split, the battery is inside. Before you remove the battery note the position it is in when installed. on the battery on one side there is a + (plus) sign. On the other side is a - minus sign. The number (size) of the battery is also stamped on the battery. Replace with the same size battery, it does not have to be by the same manufacturer. When removing and installing new battery be very careful not to touch any of the electronics or damage the parts that hold the battery. make sure all is lined up snap back together and you are good to go.
2003 gmc 2500 hd has spark has 60lbs fuel
Hi, at this point, I usually see if I can check valve timing without tearing the engine apart. Unfortunately, with a pushrod gasoline engine, which I'm thinking you have, the timing marks are just above the crankshaft. This requires removal of the crank pulley and damper to access the timing cover. :o(
It may be easier but not as definitive to pull off the bank 1 valve cover to see how late after #1 TDC (exhaust stroke) the intake valve is opening. If it's not opening right after TDC, the cylinder will not take a fuel/air charge. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Front end makes noice when
check front axle shafts cv joints one might be bad. also if you turn on a dry surface when 4x4 engaged it will bind and make noise. Jack front of truck up and try to wiggle wheel up,down all around as you may also have a bad wheel hub bearing that is clunking when turning.
2004 gmc sierra clunk noise in drive line when
The drive shaft yoke is dry on the transmission out put shaft. When you stopp it slides in on the shaft, and then when you let go of the brakes the yoke sides back and goes clunk. Remove drive shaft and lubricate the splines in the yoke.
Elctronic engage 4 hi clunk
If you know for sure it's coming from the case, then gears. I would check all the universal joints on the drive shafts first
No power to fuel pump
Your truck may be equipped with a shock sensor that is designed to interrupt power to the fuel pump in an accident.
These sometimes trip from rough roads.
I always suggest having a service manual on hand; it is a worthwhile 'investment' and not expensive:
2003 Sierra manual
How do i remove the
Hello: Behind the fan and in front of the water pump there is a big nut, turn it counter-clockwise to loosen. (leave the belt on when removing) There is a special wrench for this, Auto Zone, Advance Auto etc) Sometimes you have to hit the wrench with a sharp blow to break it loose.
What does it mean when
Chances are you've either run out of gear oill,worn out the gears, or you've blown a bearing. I'd get it checked soon. If your doing it yourself, check fluid level first. if okay, drain fluid and remove cover. Check magnet on bottom for metal shavings, and check if any of the gears are movable. They should have no play what-so-ever.
GOOD MORN SNOWED 18 INCHES
The differential in the front of your vehicle is what's called an "open" style. Most 4x4's are. In fact the rear ones are generally open as well unless you ordered it with positraction. What that means is that most 4x4's actually only have two wheels engaged when in four wheel drive. (one front, one rear).
The problem with that is the wheel that has the least amount of traction is the one where power gets transferred to (by design) making it possible to get stuck. With a positraction unit in ther back, you would have both rear wheels and one front wheel engaged, making it less probable that you can get stranded. Off road vehicles that are used specifically for only that purpose, many times use a posi unit up front as well but that makes it very difficult to go in anything but a straight line without a lot of effort so you won't find that option in any factory vehicle. Therefore as long as one front wheel is turning, the system is working.
As for the blower not working, likely that's another problem all by itself. Could be a fuse, relay, or the blower itself but really needs to be diagnosed using a volt meter and a system diagram. If it blows on other functions, also check the vacuum operated control motors on the heater box.
Not finding what you are looking for?