I am working on removing a Rear Heater Core Hose. It is not connected using the traditional method of hose clamps. it is connected more like a hydraulic hose. There is no nut to turn, no clamp to squeeze. How can i remove the hose without causng further damage. Photo can be provided if needed.
if you can get me a picture i can help you out. blue_dragon45801@yahoo
Posted on Jun 21, 2008
This is a K2500 with 7.4L engine. Wife was driving & engine died. Would crank but wouldn't start. Checked for secondary spark, there is none. Battery is good, cranks over well and can hear the fuel pump running. Checked coil, tested good. Changed crankshaft position sensor on hunch that it might be bad. Didn't work, still no spark at spark plugs. Plugged in scanner and turned ignition on, but scanner won't recognize that it is plugged in. Checked fuses, all good.
not all scanners a created equal. You need to check for trouble codes...............but it must be fixec by now.
Posted on Feb 08, 2009
I am not a car repair person at all, but with help, can hopefully avoid a costly repair. I have a 1996 Suburban and the cable that releases the emergency brake when you pull the handle broke during our fabulous snow storm. I can release the emergency brake manually (I looked underneath at where the cable probably went and was able to pull on a part that released the brake). Is the cable an easy item to find and more importantly, is it easy to install? I'm so in the habit of setting the emergency brake and am now pulling on the broken handle to release the brake. Help! Thanks!
Somewhat easy to replace. The part is a dealer item (purchase only from Chevrolet dealer) If you are going to do this yourself, take many photos on the progression of the job to refer back to when putting it back together. Good Luck!
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
I found a leak just between the power steering pump and the master
cylinder. the problem seems related as i lost all brakes and power
steering at the same time. located the leak in between these two units,
but am not sure what i need to do to fix the problem as the pump and
the master cylnder are both working properly. I know i have air in the
brake and power steering lines now, but will bleed them after the leak
is fixed. Is there a seal in between these two units? I am trying to
find a service manual but can not locate one.
Please give me some advise as to what to look at or what needs to be done to fix the leak.
Cheers
Daan
if you got the hydro brake boost system .check your power steering pump hoses for leaks .check master cylinder is leaking. fill power steering pump and master cylinder with fluid. the one that is the lowest that the one leaking. if your hydro boost brake unit is leaking .replace it .if power steering pump leaking. it not the hoses replace it . because if power steering goes out brakes will also go out.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
after i drive for about 15 miles and stop ,and start driving again the transmissio shift hardly in 1,2,3,4 so i do not know what to do ? i repelt the transmission ,i replase anew solnoid for 1,2 and 3,4 ,force motor ,tcc speed sensor , shift sensor help me please .
did you replace the torque converter I am having the same problem and I have been told the torque converter could be bad
Posted on Jan 26, 2010
96 Suburban v8/7.4L/454 K2500, when I start the engine there is a loud knocking as the car warms it gets quieter but stays., when I accelerate it gets louder at Idle it is very quiet. When I hit about 25mph it goes away?? Seems as though it is coming from the Drivers Side, Hoping its not as serious as I think, please say "no problem easy fix".,
sound like an internal engine problem. either one or more of the pistons has "piston slap" and that knocking will diminish as the engine warms up or possibly a rod bearing is worn out. have a tech do a manual oil pressure test to make sure the oil pump and main bearings are ok. piston slap or knock that decreases when the engine warms up is not that serious, but a rod bearing knock or possible oil pump failure should be taken care of asap.
Posted on Oct 29, 2009
My 1996 gmc suburban has a tranny problem it shifts from 1st to 2nd (shifts hard when cold) and then i have to rev to 3500-4000 rpm release the throttle and it will shift into 3rd. Drives in third and no matter what rpm I accelerate to it will not shift into 4th. This tranny was rebuilt one year ago to the day by aamco for 2,700 and the warranty is expired via mileage, and they want another 2,800 to repair it again. P.S. this tranny was rebuilt the previous year(2008 by mister transmission) for 2,900.. I guess it is time to dump the truck and buy foreign. By the way anyone that deals with corporate tranny shops be ware there is no such thing as a warrany. They dont stand behind there work!!!!!!!!!!
96 gm trucks had a proble with third gear burning out because of a ground issue from pcm..there was a bulletin for adding a new ground for third gear control circuit...aftermarket trans shops do not remember this problem and it is often overlooked..take to local dealership and you should be able to get problem resolved
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
where is the oil pressure sending unit on a 1996 GMC 4WD Suburban?
The oil pressure sending unit is located on the engine block, passenger side by the Distributor. Good luck and make sure you get the right sending unit, there is the simple unit that only turns on a low oil pressure light and the other will send signals to the oil pressure gauge.
Posted on Feb 06, 2010
symptoms of a bad pick up module on a 1996 GMC K2500 Suburban
What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.
Posted on Jun 17, 2010
1996 chevy suburban high beams work, low beams and daytime running lights don't. checked all fuses none blown, dont know how to check relays except to replace each one, one at at a time.
with a test light back probe the green wire behind the low beam then if test light on = bulb defect
the blue one is for daytime running lights example : if 1 bulb is burn or open no daytime running lights
p.s. you need to have 2 bulbs the same or it won't work
Posted on Aug 05, 2013
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