20 Most Recent 1996 GMC Suburban - Page 7 Questions & Answers

computer controled timing to set put on tdc mark location of number one down cap to housing pull cap line rotor up with mark try it that way

Well its located on the left side in the hood.

sounds to me like it is burning coolant A bad intake manifold gasket will craete all the problems you are describing.The vacuum leak can also cause the EVAP codes

firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 from no1 clockwise

Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. This is stamped usually on the front of the intake manifold if you have a TBI set up - if you have a CSFI or MFI set up, it may be on the side

need to grease caliper pins or rubber brake line is breaking down on the inside,do caliper pins first

The battery is Dead. It has the volts to run the lights and radio witch use very little power. The problem is the battery does not have the amps (a whole lot of power)
to turn over the engine. A jump start may work. It might need a good charge. If the battery is over 4 years old it may and should be replaced. They only last 4-5 years

Hmmm so the old boy wont start without some starting fluid eh?
I Love GM vehicles but I am not there. Here is a checklist of what I would ask myself were I there and able to test.
1. are the batteries and starter in good condition so it cranks at the speed it should without killing the voltage necessary to fire the injectors?
2. what is the fuel pressure to the injectors?
3. when was the last tuneup?

Id lean towards the fuel pressure because by this year it started being more critical and the pumps were in the tank and they would start going bad and causing all sorts of hard to troubleshoot problems. These days I pretty much start troubleshooting with checking fuel pressure.
Fuel pressure with the key on engine off should be 60-66. anything less then that could be a problem.

1st u need to have the transmission tested for fault codes, this transmission is shifter by use of computer controlled solenoids, any Kragen or Autozone parts store can run the test, the test is free, let me know the results.

have you made sure the filler gaiter/flap have been removed....

Sorry for the delayed response.
CLICK on the following LINK. It has the Belt Diagrams you will need.
If you would: Before Clicking: Let me know if this helped you, or if you have any additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Again my apologies...
Thanks.
http://www.2carpros.com/car_repair_information/year/1996/make/gmc/model/suburban/1996_gmc_suburban_drive_belt_routing_diagram.htm

check the codes on why the check engine light is on, most likely needs injectors.

if you got the hydro brake boost system .check your power steering pump hoses for leaks .check master cylinder is leaking. fill power steering pump and master cylinder with fluid. the one that is the lowest that the one leaking. if your hydro boost brake unit is leaking .replace it .if power steering pump leaking. it not the hoses replace it . because if power steering goes out brakes will also go out.

Then your rotors are warped or need to be turned if not replaced.

Replace the sparkplugs or try holding the gas pedal to the floor and try to start but keep pedal to floor until engine starts and revs, this may take a few trys, dont crank more than 10 to 15 seconds, if this doesnt work then replace the plugs,

The valves are loaded up with carbon and you are flooding it out it seems to me. 209K is a lot on a original motor so its time to do something about it or trade it in. I specify carbon on the valves since you had said it has no lack of power

Hello Andy.
I see you have been having difficulty with getting a proper answer.
I have been in the field of repair for over 30 years and still get my fingers dirty.
I have taken these flanges apart dozens of times over the years but I will be darned if I could tell you definitively what size they are.
I do know they are metric, I suspect a 10 or 12mm thread, somewhere around an inch and a quarter long and the head of them takes a 15mm socket for removal. I would say the grade would be at least a grade 8.
Can't say as I ever have had to replace one one of them.

In the trade, bolt replacement is somewhat of a rarity and the usual ones are either part of a package of repair (such as head bolts) or just a common bolt available in our stocked bins.
If the bolt is a specialty item, I get them from the dealer as I am assured to get the proper size and quality. Yes, they can be expensive, but so are labor rates and liability too.
I may not have answered your question completely but thought I would let you in on a little of how it can be for us in the automotive field.
I wish you well on your quest for a solution.

Kl

its not that easy to upgrade the water pump and thermostat housing just with the pump, housing and hose. and yes there is a bolt involved in the kit. but you require proper schematics to do this upgrade.which you can get only from the local car garage mechanics who deals with this kind of up-gradation and they will only let you get the perfect parts.instead of spending money on non compatible parts its advisable to get is confirmed by the local car techs in the garage before doing this costly up-gradation.but yes one thing is sure that this up-gradation is possible,this can be done but it requires proper tools and schematics to do this process. check out.keep updated.thanks.

The thermostat and housing are on the engine block. Just follow the upper radiator hose straight to engine. It should just have one thermostat and one housing with three bolts in it.