20 Most Recent 1996 GMC Suburban - Page 6 Questions & Answers

probly the idler or thentioner pullys. carfully spray just a few drops of wd40 on the center of the idler then the tentioner. carful not to get in on the belt. if u oil the bearing and the soond goes away then u need to replace the pully because it will come back in a few days.

Then your problem is caused by the drivers door coutesy light switch being defective, a common problem, replace it or clean the contacts to correct the problem, below is the part number and a picture of the switch. To replace it you just pry the old switch out and then pop the new one in, 5 minute job.

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # DS869T T-Series
Door Jamb switch; Right Front; w/ 16mm Button Price $2.16

Most parts stores can get it or have it. A company named dorman products makes it.

It's proably a rod not the crank a crank noise would thump and be noisey on initial start up. a knocking or rattle is the connecting rod. I would get a price for a short block from jasper engines and not mess around if u havent done something like this before. You have to pull the engine and it's alot of knowing what your doing from there. Jasper offers a 3yr 100.000 mile warrantee if you want to keep the truck give em a call otherwise Call yr local boneyard for a low mile used engine but then again buyer beware.

Stand up infront of your suburban, them on the right bottom corner side

If you hear the fuel pump come on when you put the key to the run position...then replace the crankshaft position sensor, I would also replace the camshaft position sensor as well because a failure there will have the same effect, and its cheap insurance against further breakdown. $80 for both at rockauto.com

When the crankshaft position sensor fails the engine will run for one second then shut off as if it ran out of gas.

Make sure your fuel pump is running; it should run about 5 seconds when you try to start the car. if not check the fuse and relay for the pump and the ground strap

Make sure your battery is in good condition with tight connections.

check the fuel pump relay for power or short

bolts are behind the steering knuckle to remove the bearing and hub assy.

Start vehicle, if driveable drive vehicle to warm up at least five miles.Then place vehicle in park, remove dipstick on level surface, and check trans fluid level.Fluid will be between lower holes on dipstick for cold fluid and upper holes for hot fluid.Add fluid a pint at a time if fluid is low.I hope I could help, rate me accordingly, Thanks!!

Did you test for spark?

A picture being worth a thousand words go to youtube.com and do a search for "GM lock cylinder". You will find several videos of this being done, and they all come out pretty much the same. Myself I have a dealer set the key on the thing so it will match my doors and trunk. This may well also be the time to replace the ignition switch, it is more than 10 years old.

You need to have your front end checked out.Probably the idler arm and possibly the pitman arm have excessive play.You should have this checked out before you have bigger problems.Hope this helps.Good luck.

auto choke device defective

pull caliper @ then behind rotor there are 2 bolts most likely 18mm pull those @ then pull rotor

RECHARGE THE SYSTEM AND PRIOR TO DOING SO HAVE THE LOW AND HIGH PRESSURE SIDES CHECKED FOR PROPER PRESSURES, TGHIS HAPPENS ESPECIALLY DURING HUMID WEATHER CONDITIONS, YOU MAY NEED TO REPLACE THE RECIEVER DRIER PRIOR TO HAVING THE SYSTEM RECHARGED(POA VALVE). 45/180PSI APPROX.

No obvious leaks, ehh? First of all, start the truck, and watch the tailpipe. Do you have any smoke which is by chance white, and smells sweet? Now, turn it off real fast. Let it cool. Get a volunteer, take the cap off, put your hand over radiator fill neck. Do you feel pressure against your hand? Check the oil. Does it look kinda' milky? Does the radiator water look bubbly? Finally, when you pour water in, does it go down rather quickly, but not a leak (Within 2 minutes)? These may indicate a broken head gasket. Otherwise, start looking around for cracked old hose, cracked hose necks, loose clamps, etc.

Check your battery connections to see if they are loose, corroded (baking soda and water to clean), or broken. Check ground wire.
Could be the cilynoid.

check voltage at battery, bypass fusible link and check if wires are re-connected and tight at the starter

You will need to take the panel off from inside the door to get at the mechanism for the latch and lock.

You need a scanner to set timing.