20 Most Recent 1996 GMC Suburban - Page 5 Questions & Answers

check vacum hose running to back of trans for vacum if has good vacum replace modulator valve on transmission(where vacum hose ends).its a easy fix.

Replace the fuel filter if it's not been done in awhile. You may have good pressure, but not good flow. A tune up wouldn't hurt either . Check the air filter too.

change out your throttle position sensor

Clutch fan? If you have the wrench to put on the nut, you have to hit it with a hammer, counter clockwise to get it to break free, once it does you can remove it by hand. Also hit it several times after you install it.

Check to see if you have power to the motor (use a simple circuit light and have someone press the washer button/lever in the car). If you have power, you have a bad motor (common problem), if not, check the wiring/fuse.
Good Luck

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

Have you replaced the distributor coil pack? If the coil pack is burnt or worn out there will be no spark to the plugs which may result to a no start issue. I strongly suggest that you have it replaced.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

Looks like that the car's computer is faulty. This is a common problem on this vehicle. The engine is interconnected on the car's computer that when it's faulty something will surely fail, no wonder the engine is not running.

I strongly suggest that you go for a computer swap and observer how it goes.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Blower motor resistor block is attached with two screws opposite side of the blower motor

the electric shift motor on transfer case is bad, replace and it will work great. if your at all mechanically inclined you can do this very easy. before unbolting motor disconnect battery to reset computer install part, should only take you 15 min maybe then hook up battery and you will have 4 wheel drive again. good luck

Even though the electrical switches are working, the vacuum lines may be the source of the trouble. Inspect all vacuum hoses. Look for loose connections, broken t fittings, weathered or mushy hoses, There is a vacuum operated switch under the vehicle that engages the front axle. Locate this switch and make sure the vacuum line is still connected at both ends. This hose is bad about coming loose.

If nothing else, follow the 'positive' battery cable, that's where it goes. If you have the V-8 it'll be on the passenger side, under the motor. Wiggle underneath, behind the front tire (after blocking the wheels, just because..) and look up inside the frame rail. Should be two vertical bolts that hold it in. It's usually easiest to unhook/rehook the wires on the solenoid when the starter is off the motor, you might have to set the starter on something to hold it up so that the wires aren't all tight when you try to deal with them.

If you take pictures with your phone as you go it can make it easier when you don't remember what goes where.

You may have to shim this starter. Search here for "shim GM starter" or "shim Chevy starter" and you'll find how it's done.

lp

buy a japanese car. problem solved.

Listen at the back by the fuel tank for a 1 to 2 second prime cycle whirr from the tank when turning the key to run position after it has been off for at least 10 seconds.
No noise means no running pump.
....and no noise means.....
Most likely it will need a new fuel pump....80%
Fuel pump relay 10%
Fuse or bad wiring 10%

The quick fix to get home is to crank the truck to create oil pressure to fire the pump......and while cranking WHACK the tank hard with a 2by4 or something like that....to jar the pump..... and it may start running long enough to get it somewhere to be repaired.
This works 60% of the time on a dead pump.

If you do hear a whirrr.....you most likely need a ignition module or crank or dist pickup.

YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO BUY A WIRE HARNESS AT ANY AUTO PARTS STORE THAT WILL PLUG DIRECTLY INTO EXSISTING HARNESS.

Timing belt slipped. You'll still have spark and fuel, but it will not start. If you had a timing light, you'd probably find that it is off. Happened to me last year. . .

You obviously have play in the steering system, as well as an
alignment problem.
Are the tires the same outside dia and inflated near max, on side wall

SHIFTER CABLE WILL BE BROKEN SOON. CABLE IS BINDING IN IT'S SLEEVE, COLD MAKES IT HARDER TO OPERATE...

If its hard to steer - you probably are in 4x4, especially if turning hard over. (this should be done only if necessary since it putsa a lot of strain on the front 4x4 components. If you want to be sure you are in 4x4 clear an area and put a block in front of one or both of your front tires and try to drive over while not in 4x4. Then try in 4x4. If you can in 4x4 and not in 2wd you know your 4x4 is working. Be ready in both cases to brake in case you do go over the obsticle(s).