20 Most Recent 1996 GMC Suburban - Page 3 Questions & Answers

I'm having an issue with my temp and fuel gauges not working. all other gauges are working.

Have the computer scanned for trouble codes. It sounds like the computer is putting the car into "limp in" mode. The diagnostic codes should lead you to the problem.

ASK THE PERSON WHO REBUILT IT IF THEY REPLACED THE TORQUE CONVERTER THOSE MODEL'S HAVE WHAT THEY CALL A LOCK OUT TORQUE CONVERTOR

Either the belt has stretched, or the tensioner is not keeping it tight.Or it has oil on it.

The engine could have jumped time, or you could have moisture inside the distributor cap.

Check fgor blowin fuses, Bulbs could be bad, Loose wires, A break in a wire, Or loose ground wires, Or they shorted out,

when viewing from the front of the engine, cylinders on the passenger side are 2-4-6-8, drivers side are 1-3-5-7. from the same view, the distributer is, stating at the tower at the 5 o'clock position, 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

What's the problem?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0996b43f80c90e49

What I see the most often is a stalled engine with a loss of spark when driving. Once the engine cools off it will sometimes start and run fine for a short while then do the same thing again. Often, but not always, the pickup up coil or ignition module [both are under the distributor cap] have to heat up quite a bit before they will act up. I replace about 10 ignition modules for every one pickup coil but either one can cause the same identical stalling problem. I keep a few known good modules around as test units so I can just replace a suspected bad module and road test it to see if it works. Another thing that can go wrong in these distributors are the magnets built into the pole piece. A weak or cracked magnet can cause all kinds of odd problems such as stalling when placed in reverse, misfires over 1,000 rpm, etc. Worn bushings in the distributor can also cause problems. As far as a specific test you can do to see which part is failing? I wish there was a relaible one. I've tried using a lab scope and module testers to diganose the culprit but you have to catch the problem as it's happening for those tests to be accurate.

Opinion based question,,Overdrive was intended to benefit larger vehicles on open road rides of distance,,uses less power to maintain steady speed, Drive was intended to be used in more urban settings, red lights pedestrians,stop and starts frequently,,more pull out power to avoid other vehicles in city setting............fuel efficency was the thought. L2 L1 pulling torque or severe condition roads only.

module could do it so could a bad cap and rotor look for burn marks

sound like an internal engine problem. either one or more of the pistons has "piston slap" and that knocking will diminish as the engine warms up or possibly a rod bearing is worn out. have a tech do a manual oil pressure test to make sure the oil pump and main bearings are ok. piston slap or knock that decreases when the engine warms up is not that serious, but a rod bearing knock or possible oil pump failure should be taken care of asap.