20 Most Recent 1988 GMC C1500 Questions & Answers

if fuses chk.out ok i would have to say its the drivers side controls went bad. windows, door locks, everything runs thru drivers controls. even though you said buttons chk. out ok i can't think of anything else other than a fuse, unless the wires came loose from the maine controls or maybe there coroded. hope i've ben some help. OLD SCHOOL.

Of course.

You did not say what the mileage is. Judging from the age, I would say it is pretty high. The issue most likely related to timing. The shaft that turns the distributors rotor cap has bushings on it and it also is driven by gears inside the engine. They wear out and the timing becomes off. Also you can get a lot of wear on the timing chain and gears at that age.

Do a compression test. The pistons and rings may not seal enough anymore. Try push-starting it in 2nd gear. When you push it ,it will turn the engine faster and build up more compression, enabling combustion to take place. Aslso check if the fuel pressure regulator is not leaking through the vacuum hose, causing it to flood.

Use a gage and check proper fuel pressure. With tbi fuel injection, the fuel pressure is 9--13 psi. I have seen fuel injector spray pattern that looked good to me, but, the fuel pressure was half of what it should have been. 5 psi may show a good spray pattern, but, it won't start and run a v8. In my opinion. Any applicable trouble codes? Your obd1, you should be able to check some codes yourself, if there are any.

Try looking for a fuse box under the dash on the left drivers sidewall

If you have a coil pack on that .You have a crankshaft censer.Change the crank censer.

Greg, Air, fuel, spark. Each will have to be tested. Sometimes when you think the battery is good, it's really not. It can have some juice in it but the CCA (cold cranking amps) is really what you need to have at near full capacity. Are the battery cables in good shape and not just at the connectors to the battery. They can corrode (especially the positive red cable) at both ends (at the starter (red) and at the ground (black). Did you recently work on the truck and replace something? Retrace your steps if so. Fuel filter not clogged (recently replaced) and fresh fuel in tank? Pair filter in place and not clogged?

that is obviously the correct way , you must have had the engine 180 degrees out when you started , did you not lock down the cams etc ?

You probably need to adjust idle speed

Check it in Park and Neutral position. Put a test light on small wire at the starter and see if it lights when the key is turned to start. If no light, the wire is burned. (fusible link) test further up the wire until it lights to verify

OVERDRIVE SOLENOID IS IN THE TRANSMISSION PAN

It sounds like a problem in the main harness. The brake lights are on the same circuit as the turn signals and hazards, but the parking lights and backup lights are on different ones. So the only thing connecting all three is the ground circuit. The tail lights use a printed circuit board in the lamp assembly that could have problems, but not usually for both sides at the same time.All you can do is use a test light or meter and trace the circuits from the light bulbs back to the firewall and see where the power is stopping.

remove, clean up and resilicone it and install

Check signal to right injector with a noid light. It is probably not getting a signal.