QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.
Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)
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Probably the fuel pump. When you stand outside the vehicle and turn the ignition on, you should hear the pump in the fuel tank working for a few seconds - if not, there is a problem with the pump, the pump relay, the fuse, etc. You can also check the pump fuel pressure with a gauge attached to the service port on the fuel line at the back of the engine (caution - use an approved gauge and hookup!).
If the pump is working, check the fuel filter for plugging. The problem can also be caused by a faulty fuel regulator (inside the upper manifold).
when your brake pads get worn out they will make a slight grinding noise and when you depress your brakes they will go away .p[retty soon they will grind when you press on brakes.
Most ignition switches are fastened with Break bolts , which means they are tightened until the head breaks off .,This is to stop theft.
You have to drill out the old bolts ,
Check the heater hose sizes. Buy a connector to put the hoses together and hose clamps. Cut the hoses, insert the connector, and tighten the clamps.
If you just want to stop the coolant flow, go to any parts house and buy either a heater hose shut off valve (cut the hose, insert the valve, and install hose clamps) or buy an external hose shutoff that clamps the hose shut stopping flow.
There is not a specific value for this I think, as you must either have the unit torn down and tighten the nut against the crush sleeve until a certain amount of force is needed to spin the pinion. If removed to replace the seal, you were supposed to count the number of threads exposed on pinion shaft beyond the nut, and also mark the nut's position relative to the shaft by using a chisel. This is why I keep insisting that folks should buy a shop manual before attempting unfamiliar jobs. So OK, you replaced the seal without marking the nut. Now what? Tighten the nut checking to see when all slop (play) is removed. As soon as all play is gone, Turn nut 1/8th more and hope for the best. If unit is now more noisy than before, try just a tiny bit tighter and see what you get.
I'm not sure exactly what the noise could be except that most likely it's in the drivetrain somewhere between the tranny, transfer case, or the rear-differential (AKA: rear-diff, rear-end or third member). None of which would be cheap to repair.
I'm pretty sure the intermittency you're experiencing is because whatever is causing the noise, is only worn & not fully gone yet, but will be soon. Unfortunately, I wouldn't know how to further pinpoint this noise, maybe someone else could???
