1987 GMC Suburban - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

See if you hear the fuel pump running during the first two seconds of turning the key. You could have a bad relay, bad fuel pump, bad wiring etc. If you have a fuel pressure gauge, hook it up and check your fuel pressure.

Do you have more than one key? Try another. Same? Make sure shift linkage is correct, and may have to replace lock.

GO TO AUTOZONE AND ASK FOR A EXPLODED VEIW FOR THE HUBS

The sender is a moving part in the gas tank, take it out and look if the wire connecting the moving part is broken. Replace with Radio Shack de-solder litze wire.

Low Beamer are the outter bulbs and high beams are the inner bulbs low beam is 9005 bulb high is 9006 bulb

It depends on your mileage. It's normal for the pressure to read high on start up and then drop some but your numbers are a little low on start up, usually on the high side of 40-45.You could check your pressure with another guage and see if it reads any different. If it does then you should change yours. But if your mileage is running on the high side of 200,000 then it's probably wear and tear. I would be inclined to try a heavier oil, 15-40 or 20-50. This should bring the pressure up and help with lubrication. You could also add something like Lucas to your oil to help with lubrication and pressure. It's also possible the oil pump is wearing out but unless the mileage is below 150,000 it likely won't do much good and a new pump won't like the heavier oil.
If you are unsure of the mileage you could do a compression check. If it's 100 or under the engine is worn.There is still life in it as long as the numbers are close together but it is time to start thinking about the next step.

I only keep my original carb & rebuild myself

I only have one 27 year old vehicle left with a carb

Rebuilding a carb isn't easy,unless you can remember
where everything goes

I wouldn't pay the large amount for a carb from the parts
store that may not work correctly

You have no idea where the core came from or what
it was originally on.

They don't go bad
The float sometimes does & sinks down or the needle
& seat get old & worn

I would rebuild it

I never bought a used part in 48 years of auto repair
for anything. Although I think were about at that point
with the availabilty & price of things today.

If you have a car over 10 years old your pretty
much out of business ,as far as a dealer having parts

set the front wheels in straight ahead position by driving vechicle a short distance on a flat surface. raise and support the vechicle safely on jack stands.place a drain pan below the steering gear. disconnect negative battery cable.disconnect fluid lines.cap the openings.mark the relationship of the pitman arm to the pitman shaft.remove pitman shaft nut and then remove the pitman arm from the pitman shaft using puller J - 6632. remove the steering gear to frame bolts and remove the gear assembly. TO INSTALL align the flat of the flexible coupling with the flat on the shaft push the coupling onto the shaft until the wormshaft bottoms against the end of the shaft.install the pinch bolt. make sure the bolt passes through the shaft undercut. tighten the pinch bolt to 75 ft lbs. place the steering gear into position guiding the coupling bolts into the proper holes in the shaft flange. install the steering gear to frame bolts and torque to 66 ft lbs.install the coupling flange nuts and washers. make sure the coupling alignment pins are centered in the flange slots. tighten the nuts to 20 ft lbs. maintain a coupling to flang dimension of 0.250 - 0.375 inches. install the pitman arm.install the hoses. you are done except bleeding power steering system. BLEEDING POWER STEERING. fill the the power steering pump reservoir to the proper level and let the fluid remain undisturbed for at least 2 minutes. start the engine and run it for only about 2 seconds.add fluid as necessary. keep doing this procedure until fluid level stop dropping. then raise the front of vechicle so the front wheels are off the ground.set the parking brake and block both rear wheels front and rear. manual transmission should be in neutral. automatic transmission should be in park. start the engine and run it at approximately 1500 rpm. turn the wheels off the ground to the right and left lightly, contacting the stops.add fluid as necessary. lower the vechicle and turn the wheels right and left on the ground.check the level and refill as necessary. if the fluid is extremely foamy, let the vechicle stand for a few minutes.with the engine off and repeat the procedure. if fluid looks foamy. once all done.dont drive vechicle on highway until normal steering is obtain.

EITHER TO THE RIGHT, OR LEFT OF THE OILPAN AT THE BELL HOUSING TO THE TRANSMISSION!

On this model,the lock up is in the converter ,this locks the converter up for an over drive.

that transmission should be using a kick-down cable for shifting. the700r4 did not go to electronic shifting untill 93.

this is so normal either replace it or have it welded

no go to the Idle air control system

when you say pulley loks like it is off, are you referring to the timing marks not ligning up?
if this is what your talking about, it is more likely that the distributor has been installed a notch or two wrong

Check for vacuum leaks and for spark. The most common problem Ive seen is the ignition control module. Those are notorious on the older chevys. It is located on the bottom of the distributor.

there must be a short either in the wiring to the pump or a short in the fuel pump itself

behing your engine fan pulley, on top of your crankshaft pulley becareful removing the bolts. they have a tendancy to rust and break very easy. good luck.

Hi, the fuseble links are located either at the starter, or on the firewall, you will see wires going to a small black cyllinder, then turning red, or white. thiss is the fuseable link. Good luck...Coop

Hi! Can you please tell me more of the problem in english. Hope to know more and I'll be glad to be of help. Have a good one!

first, try smacking the hood at one of the front corners while someone else pulls the release handle. or even after you've pulled on it. if that works, once open, adjust and lubricate the hood latch assembly. if it still won't open, and it's the cable and not the latch you'll have to replace it anyway, so instead of removing the grill, cut the cable behind the pull lever under the dash where you can reach it. then skin the outer cable insulation away from the actual steel cable exposing an inch or two of it. then holding the insulation and plastic housing with pliers, grab the steel cable itself with pliers and pull it to open the hood. then replace the cable. the further you can reach up under the panel the better your chances of getting past the broken part of the cable and avoid removing the grill. you might also be able to gain access from up under the car if you're lucky.