1986 GMC Suburban - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The power lead (12 volts) goes to the "S" terminal (small wire) of the Alternator, "S" is for Stator, then if the choke has a ground terminal it hooks to any convenient place on the engine, the intake bolt is best, just make sure the choke ground is less than 3 ohms.

when you're facing the engine its the biggest hose on your left going from the radiator to the intake manifold undo the hose clamp on the hose connected the intake manifold pull the hose off, undo the 2 bolts that hold the thermostat housing on (the part that you just pulled the hose off of) pull the thermostat out it will just be sitting there no wires or bolts holding it down, put new one in same way, scrape thermostat housing clean of excess gasket or gasket sealant aswell as the intake manifold. replace the gasket seal it up with high temp r.t.v sealant (gasket sealer) usually comes in a tube an the color is red. bolt thermostat housing back down connect the radiator house, check anti-freeze level an you're good to go

Check for power at the window motor. If it has power then more than likely the motor is bad.

brake light switch next to brake pedal under dash..plunger looking thing needs replaced

on the right side of engine theres a cap right on top of pump and the v-belt goes around the pulley on power steering pump, good luck

Try unplugging the vacuum line to the brake power booster with the vehicle in park and running. Press the brakes if it feels the same then the vacuum booster is bad and needs to be replaced. Try it with the vehicle running, and then not running. If the booster is boosting(for lack of a better term) there will be a difference when it's running.

usually the hole panel to do it correctly

The heater core is inside the vehicle in a housing SEPARATE from the A/C components.

Look under the hood on the passenger side firewall. You will see 1, 1/4 inch stud

there is a leak within the wheel drum and it is drying up when the vehicle is running. you will need to open out the wheel drums and check the wheel cylinders. Also with assistance check on all lines when someone is pumping the brakes.

4.3 or 5.7 or 7.4 liter v8 or v6 are all between firewall and engine right behind the distributor. its a pain to get to. line the crank to TDC and then pull the cap of the distributor. mark the rotor to base location so it wont loose timing and ur truck will start instead of stutter after your done. remove distributor (small screw on base of distributor) and youll get acces and see the oil sending unitan inch to the driver side behind the distributor. good luck

Is this carb?Or throttle body injected?If it is carb,then the fuel filter may be in backwards,the hole in the filter points outward toward the fuel line,you most likely crushed the filter.

No, fuel injected engines were not used in Suburbans until 1987

Check way up under the dash by the parking brake commonly referred to as emergency brake pedal

have u repaced the turn switch they have had a lot or problems in the past if it is the harness usually the problems in the steering column

get a funnel and pour it into the dip stick hole that you use to check the fluid level with.

get the new gears take the cover off the pumpkin they are usually held in with a clip similar to snap rings after that it should just come right apart.. think.. something so simple keeps your axel in your rear end

thats a real simple unit, either the pumps input shaft sheared or the drive hub that that shaft engages into the torq converters spot welds broke. happens on rebuilt torq converters from time to time, either way its gota get pulled. a 2wd is very easy to remove and cheap to repair good luck!

You'll need to remove screws that are by the door handle, arm rest, under door and side of door and then gently pull back on the panel as there will also be retaining clips attached and you don't want to break them. If needed, you can pull back the weather seal (can't reuse it, but it's not that important) and you will be able to access everything inside the door

yes, cause there is no vaccum to the brake booster.

Door panel is attached to door frame on the sides and bottom perimeter with push-in fasteners. There are screws that attach the arm rest/door pull to the frame , and also the panel trim around the door open/close handle.

Locate and remove all screws.

The perimeter of the panel is popped away from the door frame by inserting a flat blade screw driver between the panel and the frame.
There is a trim tool for this that works better than a screw driver. Pretty inexpensive from an auto parts store. Once the sides and bottom are free, the panel is lifted up to disengage it from the top portion of the frame where the panel is attached to the inside of the window trim.

Be careful not to pull or yank the panel too far out because of the wires that are attached to the inside of the panel.

Those plastic fasteners are replaceable, should any break when they are popped out (again, auto parts store carries these).
Hope this helps...