20 Most Recent 1997 GMC Suburban Questions & Answers

The overheating probably came from the coolant being too low. The coolant in the reservoir won't go back into the radiator if the coolant in the radiator is too low. Until you get it fixed, check and fill up the radiator every time you want to use it. Overheating is very bad for engines and can cause expensive engine repairs. Where is it leaking, from the engine or the radiator? You didn't say, but wherever it is leaking is the place to start. If at the radiator, and it is not a loose or leaking hose, I would be looking for a new radiator. If it is leaking at the front of the engine and dripping down from there, you could have a bad water pump. This could be an expensive repair at a shop-not the pump itself-they are not too expensive-but the labor cost in replacing a water pump will add up. The thermostat would not cause it to leak. But when all is said and done, you will want a new thermostat, after the leak is fixed. They are very cheap and it is just good insurance.

This is also causing your miss also GMC Forum: P1345 Camshaft to Crankshaft correlation faulty Originally Posted by [email protected] I hooked my 1997 sierra up to a OBD Scanner and it reads that i have a P1345 code which is a camshaft to crankshaft correlation fault. Could it be a bad sensor or is it automatically my timing change that needs to be replaced? You are correct, the ECM has detected the timing from the crankshaft and camshaft is off to far to set off the DTC code P1345. It's more common for distributor gear to be worn then your timming chain. If your timming chain is stretched, you can hear it rattleing under hard acceleration. The 1996 and newer Vortec is a non adjustable timing. There is a very good chance that replacing cam position or crankshaft position sensor will not fix this problem. This code tells you that the base timing of the vehicle is not correct. You really need to get the vehicle scanned with a scantool that will read the cam retard with the engine running over 1200 rpms and then make adjustments by turning the distributor, unless it is timing chain/gear stretch/wear or wear on the distributor gear. You could mark the current distributor orientation and turn the distributor counterclockwise, clear the code and start the vehicle and rev over 1200 rpm to see if it comes back, but the scan tool that can read the cam retard is the best way. FYI The cam position sensor is in the distributor and the crankshaft position sensor is mounted to the bottom of the motor near the balancer. But i would look in to repalceing the worm gear at the bottom of the distributor shaft, the 97 and 98s, Vortec engine is that the gears were soft and they would actualy wear enough to through off the timing and you could try to adjust the timing but at some point you'll run out of adjustment. Also, the real big problem is that the gear is also hooked to the oil pump and at 75 or so, it may strat to mis-fire and backfire because the timing is so far off and the oil pump is also run off the same gear and your oil pump can fail. This is a common problem with that vintage of GM distributors because you could usually adjust the timing enough to get the code to go away but you are just masking the real problem. Friend is a GM certified Tech, worked at an Olds dealer for 10 years before opening his own place, but he had never herd of this as being common. He then proceeded to show me a box with about 25 to 30 gears all worn the same way and all from 96 thruogh 99s that had SES lights on. And now with a $40 part and less than two hours labor and ten minutes on a scanner all these 100K mile trucks run fine and can pass E-Test. Good luck and you really need a Tech2 scanner to get a better picture on why your getting a P1345 DTC code, but most likely it's going to be a $40.00 distributor gear.

look into ignition switch

Could be the fuel filter. Watch the speed it happens. IE.. Ok at 50 MPH, hit 60 MPH it starts jerking. Clogged filers will give the pressure need, just not the volume of fuel need at higher speeds.

Dear Aaron, Your heater and air conditioner assemblies are partly vacuum actuated. The parts underneath the dash are also largely plastic. Many, if not most of the time, either there is a vacuum leak ( that you probably cannot hear) or a plastic part that is sticking or has broken. Those parts like that are usually inside the housing & ductwork under the dashboard on the right side also under the glove box. God bless your efforts.

Do you have battery power at the coil when the key switch is on and when the engine is cranking ? The rotor on the distributor is turning, right ?

Back in 97 lots of models without aircon didn't have a cabin filter. Most cars have the cabin filter located in the heater/ventilation air-box at the base of the windscreen; sometimes there is a panel that needs removing and sometimes there is a flap to provide access. Vauxhall cars of the era (they are General Motors too) often needed the removal of the glovebox to provide access to a cover retained by 2 screws. It is wise to try and get the best access possible as invariably a good vacuum cleaner will be needed to clean the filter housing and surrounding area while replacing the filter.

U probly burnt the alternator. Nevr put a draind batt up. Fuelpump cud b worn tu

Want to help you but can you provide some imfo like year model etc of your car .all cars runs if you have both gas and spark

hello. on the drivers side of radiator is a drain. here is a picture and the instructions for draining the coolant out.

Install a tube on the radiator drain. Place the end of the tube in the drain pan.

After the engine cools down, remove the radiator cap.

Completely open the radiator drain ****.

Allow the coolant to drain from the system until the flow stops.

Place a drain pan under the block drain hole plug.

Remove the drain hole plug from the engine block.

Allow the coolant to drain from the block until the flow stops. There may be more drainage from the radiator at this time.

Install the block drain hole plug.

Close the radiator drain ****.

disconnect the wire then put your finger in the lighter then turn the back and it will unscrew

Use basic diagnosis chart. Getting spark to plugs? Getting fuel to engine? Compression test. Does rotor button turn when cranking engine? If not, needs timing chain.

There is a separate circuit and relay that primes the fuel system when you start the vehicle. If you sit in a silent location and turn the key to the ON position (without cranking), you should hear the fuel pump run for about 5-6 seconds. This is to bring the fuel pressure up in order to let the vehicle start. Then the normal pump circuit takes over. Sounds like your priming circuit is not working. I would try the relay first.

i have a 95 gmc suburban that keeps blowing the fuse when break is aplied i even disconected the back lights and it does the same what could it be

If you messed with the timing its probably out of time for the reason it will not start

What engine is in your 1997 Suburban?

Possibly the linkage has slipped off of the handle assembly, gain access to examine it by removing the inner door panel. Or handle assembly tab has broken off.

Broken outer handle or linkage to lock assembly. Door panel must be removed