1993 GMC Sierra - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The problem may be the engine coolant sensor. If the sensor fails the engine will stop when normal operating temperature is reached . When engine is cold it will start.

When this truck dies,does it have spark,or fuel pressure?Check it for no spark,if it has no spark,replace the ignition module.These gm year models are bad to go out ,and the distributor pick up coil also.Replace the module first,if this does not help,replace the pick up coil.NOW ON A FUEL RELATED PROBLEMit could be fuel pump,fuel pump relay,or the pick up coil.The pick up coil pulses the injectors,and the spark.I hope this helps,if not let me know.

probably a brake light switch at the top of the brake pedal arm feel up there till you find a white or black plastic switch. They are inexpensive at Am*zon or Rock Auto.

sounds like a vacuum leak from a mad gasket as the engine warms up the gap increases allowing the noise on acceleration the vacuum is very low so the noise is not heard check for hoses that are cracked , loose or fallen off

The switch inside the steering column is broken. You can repair it if you are a little bit talented with tools .Buy your self a repair manual specific to your model and year. it will show you step by step Chilton or Haynes produce these for $25 any auto parts store. or better yet buy a factory repair manual for your truck but expect to pay $150 plus for it.There is a Factory "Service Manual" and a Unit Repair" manual the later is the one you want.

There's probably something in the way. Get under and behind the seat with a flashlight and check the back end of the rails to see if something is there.

first off --run the fault codes it could be a wiring problem, TCM , or VSS problem, oil change needed or transmission actuator problem

Once upon a time... half a century ago... Carbureted engines had a hard rod between the throttle... and a Vacuum dashpot that FAIRLY EFFECTIVELY... signaled those transmissions when to shift... Likewise... when those same carburetors were out of whack... Those old time (not so bad) engines were equally bogged down... Probably not as efficiently... All the new electronic bells & whistles are merely relating INTERREALATIONS we already know... So when you say you remove the foot from the "gas" the VACUUM CLIMBS... the tranny shifts AS IT SHOULD... You know the trouble is the MANIFOLD PRESSURE or the transmission control module (TCM)... The choice which to try first is doubly EASY... COST & DIFFICUTY of the MAP is easy & low. If that guess is wrong you know to label the MAINIFOLD AIR Sensor as a GOOD SPARE... AND move on the TCM. Principles remain the same... Cheapest & easiest first... Hope this helps!!!

I would check the engine timing and do a check on the exhaust to be sure it is not partially blocked. As to the snapping when you shift I would check the universal joint to be sure it is ok and the rear end may have some play in it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Where+is+the+crankshaft+sensor+on+the+2005+yukon+denali&biw=1364&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi4veC_rvzQAhWLw1QKHYQKCDQQsAQIGQ#tbm=isch&q=Where+is+the+door+lock+relay+located+on+a+1993+gmc+sierra+sle Hope this helps

Google "DAYCO serpentine belt routing guides"

I don't know about your particular application, but I do know that manufacturers are not using heavy enough wire for many things on a vehicle. So if the coils are bigger (higher output voltage) then they probably would draw more power and more load on control modules. I don't know any reason why stock would not be enough spark, these are a lot more powerful already than ignition systems were 40+ years ago. So in my opinion, no I wouldn't do it.

look at your gauges if you go low on fuel it will come on also check oil ,coolant level also check the battery or volt meter if low or high will set it off

no photos no joy learn to post photos, we cant guess parts or exact location on the unstated engine.

Check that the EGR vacuum solenoid is working. Remove the vacuum line to the EGR and there should be no vacuum in that line with the engine at idle.

I'm having the same problem at the shop I work for. So far I've changed the computer chip in it, throttle position sensor, and it seems to be doing better. Haven't found the real exact problem yet so if it fixes it let me know please. Chip is about $80 from Autozone and tps about $40 or $50.

the third is probably the vent line.

You need to reach in under the dash until you feel the switch. On the side opposite the wired side, work your way toward the dash until you feel a little button. It is spring loaded. Push it in, then pull out the switch knob from the front while holding the button in. Once the knob is out completely, you will see a screw holding the switch to the dash - undo this and bob's your uncle (in my case, my nephew).

Sounds like the disks are warped, replace those or have them machined, all should be good after that, hope this helps

Between the abs, transmission,engine, air bags , seatbelts, way to many to count off hand,what sensors are you asking about?