1995 Mazda Protege - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

maybe the fuel isn't going to the injectors. you have to do the bleeding. check the spark plugs.

A fresh charged battery does not mean it is a good battery.The battery is working the alternator to death,replace it,it has a bad cell,or the amps are to low,and has a short in it.The alternator senses the battery is in bad need off charge,and puts all out until the alternator has nothing left,This is the most likely cause of this problem.Also be sure the battery cable ends are shiny clean when replacing the battery.

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Hi, First, congrats on the most detailed problem description I have ever seen! Seriously, it does assist us. All this is completely consistent with your clutch not releasing properly, meaning that the gearbox is still turning when the pedal is depressed. The syncros in the gearbox will then keep you out of gear, that is what they should do. You can indeed shift into higher gears however when driving as the gearbox revs more nearly match to what is needed. The jerking forward when you hit the starter is due to the poor old starter motor having to move the whole car instead of just the engine, because the clutch has not released ! Now as to why, it is likely that the clutch release fork has broken, inside the housing. I had this once with a Mazda, and symptoms were exactly as you describe. The gearbox has to be removed if this is the problem, and you should also then take the chance to renew the clutch, pressure and driven plate both, unless quite new. Also a possible cause is a complete loss of clutch fluid if a hydraulic clutch, or a broken cable if that type of clutch. Loss of fluid in a hydraulic clutch can be easily checked in the fluid reservoir, and can occur if a hose splits ..

Obviously using the reverse procedure from how you removed it!

he is talking about the windings in your starter,just replace your starter,but,before you do that,buy a code reader,they are about 30 bucks,then pull the codes, Performance Tool CAN OBD II Diagnostic Scan Tool

I know you said you changed all the sensors. Have you looked into the crankshaft position sensor. It can be intermediate when it is starting to fail. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathaniel_9ed79ef078a2f164

Fuel pump drain back valve may be bad letting pressure drop overnight.

wire short or ignition module need replaced

Is the water pump locked up ?

need to replace it

Check all the brake line, one must be leaking

Either battery or starter.......

The buzzing noise is air in the power steering line. The reason it is only one n one side is cause when you turn the wheel it causes more pressure to build. Take the cap off the reservoir and turn the wheel back and forth all the way hold for a second on each side until the buzzing noise goes away. If that don't work then check your rack and pinion system to make sure you don't have leakage or damage from road debris. If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathaniel_9ed79ef078a2f164

Leak in the vacuum booster line ?

May still have air in the lines. Make sure your fluid isn't old. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and will cause a sponges feeling also If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/nathaniel_9ed79ef078a2f164

The 2000 Mazda protege is not equipped with a distributor, it has a set of coil packs, if you have a no spark condition look into those !

first time look,? why not post symptoms first. A/C dead? is the belt missing. why not look at it? the belt goes from crank shaft pulley to the compressor pulley and the pulleys spin running but is the compressor shaft spinning that is the question, is the clutch engaged or not. this is the 1st step after checking fuses.