2004 GMC Sierra - Page 6 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Several things could cause it, from bad wheel bearings to worn ball joints...Get your alignment checked. While they're doing it, a good shop will tell you if anything needs replacing to keep alignment true. Be sure and tell them about the brakes causing a shudder. It may be related, or your brakes might need attention. Good luck.

Is it a auto or manuel ****** , but either way it sounds like either the rear bushing is worn or the bearing or even possibly the u-joint .......

Is this just when the key is in the ignition and turned ON? Regardless, the vehicle may have a security system. If you bought the vehicle new and did not install one yourself it could have been a dealer install. Dealers will install factory authorized security systems so to protect them when on the lot....and to jack up the cost of the vehicle afterwards.

If there is a secuirty system, it may be malfunctioning or set to lock the doors either when the vehicle is off for a period of time or when the ignition is turned to ON or a combination of both.

Injector Circuit Malfunction

This sounds like a bad master cylinder, are you getting a brake light?

your charging system isn't working, if you replaced the battery and it worked for a few days, then its not being re charged after starting, I'm assuming you cleaned and tightened all the battery post connections when you installed the new battery , if not do so ,, charge the battery from an outside source, once you know its fully charged,, use a meter, and start the car ,, check the voltages at the battery posts,, you should be getting a reading of 13.5-14.5 volts, if not your alternator isn't charging the battery

usually along the frame rail or within the frame rail. get a flashlight and follow the fuel line from the tank, hope it's not in the frame rail, i really hate changing those, hope you have small hands, lol

How long does it run for before going warm?
What is the outside air temp?
Does it do the same thing whilst parked?
Does it ever cut back in on it's own [wait a few mins] or do you always have to turn the ignition off?

Some possibilities:
The over-pressure cutout is operating.
Can be caused by the condensor [in front of the radiator] becoming blocked up with to much rubbish restricting air flow, or the a/c auxillary fan [usually in front of the condensor] is not cutting in which could be a bad motor or refrigerant pressure switch is not operating.

Another is that there's a refrig, gas leak and enough gas has escaped so as to cause the low pressure switch to stop the compressor.
When the a/c is first turned on, there is enough pressure for the compressor to run, but as it runs, the low side goes too low and cuts out the compressor.

Sounds like an actuator on a blend door is not working properly.

The common issue on this year and model is the selector switch for the 4 wheel drive. These tend to go bad and cause these sypmtoms, the other cause is the transfer case switch located on the transfer case. Check all the vacuum line for any loose connections or leaks as this can cuase this as well. From the description your giving me on what you did to fix the issue want me to lean towards the transfer case switch but the dash butttons could still be causing this. these both need to be eleminated.

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I think so. I know the 2002 and up dodge trucks you do. It isnt fun but there are helpful videos on youtube that show you some tricks for doing it faster and show some hidden screws. Good Luck!

please let me know either u want to tighten the fuel cap or you wat to tighten the cap ????????????????/

The stepper motors on the dash board instrument panel are bad. There was faulty motors and you can buy them on ebay. In order to replace them you have to take the instument panel out, (go to youtube for the video) then you need to unsolder the old motors and solder the new ones in. I had never done something like this and took about an hour to replace two motors one on the gas guage and the other on the speedometer. They take the same stepper motor.

If you look behind the steering wheel there should me 2-4 screws or bolts that hold the airbag in place. generally they are Torx but some times can be regular 6 point bolts.

If its like mine ,,Angle it,, its snug but fits,,,

The fuel level sender in the tank is faulty, it's a common issue. There's a replacement part for this availble from any GM. parts dealer. Unforturnalty the tank has to be dropped and the fuel sender assembly has to be removed to replace this part.

This is not a fuse problem. You will need to have your vehicle scanned in order to retrieve the trouble code as to why the light came on and then diagnose/ repair the issue. Hope this helped

the cable lowers all the way through the tire and makes it to the ground?
The tire must be stuck on something, try to get up under there and see whats going on.

hope you figure it out.

Happy trails.

Your vehicle does two types of evaporative leak detections by the on board diagnostics. Depending on the test your a getting a gross leak detection fault this is usually caused by a faulty fuel cap that is not holding the vapor in the tank. The tests have to be done under set conditions so the problem will only occur when the test is commanded and the test fails. You will get the fuel cap then the check engine light.