1996 GMC Sierra - Page 4 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

check for leaking injectors and vacuum leaks as there is fuel getting into the exhaust system and igniting. check ignition timing as it may be retarded too far.

Sorry but no. The only adjustment for the hood is the hood latch. If the hood needs to move over an inch to line up with the hood latch then it must also need to move over an inch to line up with the fenders. If I understand it correctly then you may need to dig deeper. The frame or the nose may be racked (out of square). Good luck. But let me know if I can be of more help. Thank you.

If you have a trailer harness, inspect it carefully , possible shorting wires. Most installers use cheesy scotch-locks or butt connectors and don\'t properly insulate them . If ok, remove tail lite assemblies and unplug harnesses from modules , bulb/socket modules common for shorting out.

Sounds like you probably bent the "detent" in the transmission. You'd need to drop the trans pan and replace the linkage pertaining to this.

Can you jumper the starter solenoid and make it crank ? Do you have full battery voltage at the starter posts ? Is the engine locked up ?

Sorry no ideas without a cup of tea in one hand and big hammer in the other ,but check the fuel pressure as it could be the fuel pump has failed ,like they do

P1192 has to do with Intake Air Temp. That sensor might be bad. The P0700 has to do with Transmission Control. Whether it's the control module or something else is hard to say at this point. However, if the vibration is really in the front of the vehicle, I would start by checking UJoints on the front drive shaft, CV Joints and the Transmission Mount/Motor Mounts. Make sure your transmission fluid level is correct. The shaking "under a load" is likely a torque converter issue. I had the same problem on my 96 Suburban. Instead of rebuilding the transmission (or changing the torque converter), there is a product available called "Dr. Tranny Shudder Fixx". Small tube, put in with Transmission Fluid, shudder goes away almost instantly. Hope this helps.

squeaks can be the water pump or the power steering pump bearing. as for 2000 rpms to 4000 rpms. could be a loose wire on the cam or crank sensor. or a blocked breather line. would check ecu for fault codes... ( even if no engine light is on it will still store codes) egr fault you would know when that goes. your fuel go through the roof. and other things.

I can't remember what book says but I can't imagine it taking more than 3 or 4 hours taking your time even if you mess up and spill the fluid out of the Master cylinder and have to bleed the system. BTW, it's "Brake" Booster and sits on the firewall between the brake pedal linkage and the master cylinder. Oh and there are big differences between a 96 GMC Sierra and a Chevy S10 but the job is about the same and should take about the same length of time

Check under your hood and there should be fuses one should say blower fan or something of that sort. I use a chimeing voltometer to check my fuses. If there is a chime then it is good you can also use the old fashion light up fuse checker. Hoe this hellps

power is good but is the ground ok..check contacts in the socket..clean if corroded..

Yes, I've heard of people taking the bed off to do it. If it's only those 8 bolts and slide the bed back, sounds like a good option. Quite a bit of work dropping the tank, plus there's not a lot of room getting the filler hose off, and your hand up there to disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connector, if they are on top of the tank. With the bed out of the way, all you have to do is access the pump through the top of the tank. Check it out and see which works best for you.

check your fuses and relay if so equipped.

If it has a caby then check why the float is not controlling the needle and seat that controls the amount of fuel into the carby. Check the needle and seat for something like a hair or the rubber on the needle is cracked or the seat is loose in the carby body. Concentrate on the carby as the over fuelling problem is in that area. Check that the choke is not coming on

checa la palanca de cambios de luces

CTS "coolant temp sensor" control's the air fuel mixture and ignition advance depending on the engine temp, you have two of them, one goes to your gauge and the other to your ECM. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/brock_d67526d2a834c47e

HMM. Well the used to be in the engine compartment. They started to move them to just outside the fuel tank and on newer cars they are in the tank. Find the fuel like in the engine bay, follow it down and you will find the I promise.

Get an engine transmission warranty through an oil company like castrol or something. Should cover it for free no matter what happens for the period of the warranty.

FUEL PUMP RELAY IS CHEAP AND EASY TO REPLACE AND SEE IF IT HAD BEEN STICKING.

The spray nozzles have a small ball in the end that you can move it around with a piece of small wire or needle the size of the hole . push in the wire about the dia. of the little ball and move the ball to the position you want to hit the screen IF the ball is corroded in place you will have to get new nozzles