20 Most Recent 1996 GMC Sierra - Page 4 Questions & Answers

If the connector fits inside the unit, on one side of the connector there is a tiny lever that has to be pushed toward the center of the connector, simultaneously pulling the connector out. If the connector is outboard of the unit (at least the depth of the connector itself) there is a lever on one side of the connector that has to be pulled outward slightly while pulling the connector. Being a '96 (been connected for many years), it could take some serious force to pull the connector away

It is in the fuel tank.

Starter Solenoid? Probably a power issue, something is not connected correctly.

Do you have power in and out of the hazard flasher ?

You mean like the valves are not getting oil ?

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yeah id sy fuel pump fuel pressure regulators hardly ever ess up

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check for leaking injectors and vacuum leaks as there is fuel getting into the exhaust system and igniting. check ignition timing as it may be retarded too far.

Sorry but no. The only adjustment for the hood is the hood latch. If the hood needs to move over an inch to line up with the hood latch then it must also need to move over an inch to line up with the fenders. If I understand it correctly then you may need to dig deeper. The frame or the nose may be racked (out of square). Good luck. But let me know if I can be of more help. Thank you.

If you have a trailer harness, inspect it carefully , possible shorting wires. Most installers use cheesy scotch-locks or butt connectors and don\'t properly insulate them . If ok, remove tail lite assemblies and unplug harnesses from modules , bulb/socket modules common for shorting out.

Sounds like you probably bent the "detent" in the transmission. You'd need to drop the trans pan and replace the linkage pertaining to this.

Can you jumper the starter solenoid and make it crank ? Do you have full battery voltage at the starter posts ? Is the engine locked up ?

Sorry no ideas without a cup of tea in one hand and big hammer in the other ,but check the fuel pressure as it could be the fuel pump has failed ,like they do

P1192 has to do with Intake Air Temp. That sensor might be bad. The P0700 has to do with Transmission Control. Whether it's the control module or something else is hard to say at this point. However, if the vibration is really in the front of the vehicle, I would start by checking UJoints on the front drive shaft, CV Joints and the Transmission Mount/Motor Mounts. Make sure your transmission fluid level is correct. The shaking "under a load" is likely a torque converter issue. I had the same problem on my 96 Suburban. Instead of rebuilding the transmission (or changing the torque converter), there is a product available called "Dr. Tranny Shudder Fixx". Small tube, put in with Transmission Fluid, shudder goes away almost instantly. Hope this helps.

squeaks can be the water pump or the power steering pump bearing. as for 2000 rpms to 4000 rpms. could be a loose wire on the cam or crank sensor. or a blocked breather line. would check ecu for fault codes... ( even if no engine light is on it will still store codes) egr fault you would know when that goes. your fuel go through the roof. and other things.

I can't remember what book says but I can't imagine it taking more than 3 or 4 hours taking your time even if you mess up and spill the fluid out of the Master cylinder and have to bleed the system. BTW, it's "Brake" Booster and sits on the firewall between the brake pedal linkage and the master cylinder. Oh and there are big differences between a 96 GMC Sierra and a Chevy S10 but the job is about the same and should take about the same length of time