1996 GMC Savana - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

the may have a mouse nest in the air box. I have seen this same problem before. you'll need to remove the glove box and then the four or six screws ( can't remember witch) from the air box and you'll be able to see the doors, heater core and evaporator. the nest will probably be all over in there.

is this a after market alarm if so remove it

Don't pull the fuse ... the light is probably not the only thing on the circuit. Make sure the light has not been turned on using the switch on the dimmer for your dash board lights. If this is not the case and you still want the light to be off ... remove the bulb. Simple

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my 1996 gmc savana van keeps burning the fuel pump

I would be looking for a sticking thermostat, especially if it hasn't been changed for 2 or 3 years. Less likely would be the clutch fan not working properly. Hope this helps.

check your ground straps.

the code that you are receiving is the second cylinder on the passenger side, in otherwords the second spark plug from the front of the motor to the rear.it is not firing properly. now you have to figure out if it is the spark plug or wires or injectors, replace the plugs and wires first, if that doesn't fix than you may need to replace the injetor on number 4 cylinder.

You probably need the computer from the truck to make it run.

some GM vehicles have a fuse located under the dash on the passenger side. Best bet is to check the owners manual.

I would check any fuseable links going to the starter or the large hot wire connection on the back of the altinator.

try looking uder the driver side of the vehicle in between the front tire and back tire on the side of the frame

no, u do it in the truck.

to check for a parasitic drain, you will need a multimeter. with battery fully charged, remove negative cable from battery. set meter to 300mA and put negative lead on the battery's negative post. put positive lead on vehicle's negative cable and check meter reading. usually, there's an initial draw for a short time (1 or 2 seconds) for the vehicle'ssecurity system, relays, etc. after that, it should only pull 30-40 mA or so, for the digital clock, radio settings, etc. if you're seeing higher numbers, try removing the main fuses (under hood fuse box) one-by-one to see where the problem is. it's also possible that a diode has gone bad in your alternator, which will draw current when the vehicle isn't running. you can check this by disconnecting the alternator's electrical connector to see if you notice a difference on the meter.

you need to determine if your missing spark at the plugs or fuel pressure is below 50psi first

notify dealer for code

288:1

PERHAPS THE FUEL INJECTORS ARE CLOGGED. TRY USING A BRAND NAME INJECTOR CLEANER AND FUEL CONDITIONER SUCH AS LUCAS OR I HAVE HEARD OF OTHERS THAT WORK WELL TOO. GIVE EM ABOUT A TANK OR SO TO WORK. I HOPE THIS HELPS. THANKS FOR USING FIX-YA

i'm sorry to say the only way to get to the fuel pump is to drop the tank.

hope this helped.
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Check your vacuum lines under the hood and particularly the vacuum reservoir which is a canister that supplies a reserve on vacuum to bridge the times the engine is pulling hard. These often have plastic nipples with pushed-on hoses that can snap off.
The directional control of air flow is most often accomplished with vacuum 'motors' that move vanes to change direction. 

I had an older gmc s15. After installing a aftermarket stereo it did the same thing. Believe it or not it ended up being the headlight dimmer Switch had gone bad and was already pulling alot of juice. The new stereo just made it trip and blow the fuse alot faster.