1986 Ford Econoline - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

I would change the ignition module on the destributor

It is possible you need a fuel pump or carb could be all gumed up from sitting around

Do you have a check engine light? Ever check the alternator?

It's called an "Inertia switch".. Its behind the kick panel on the passenger side. really small little red button. Just press it firmly to reset it.

Douglas, I don't have a clue what frolling over is? what do you mean? What is your vehicle doing or not doing? If you would like assistance please please please help us to help you by giving as much clearly stated information about your problem as possible. Regards John

Don't know what that switch would be, but sudden no starts are usually fuel or ignition spark related-one of them is not getting to the cylinders. See if you have a strong blue spark on a spark plug wire. If no spark, possibly a bad ignition coil or a bad TFI module on the side of the distributor. If you have spark, see if pump is putting gas up to the engine.

15 amp fuse

15 amp

Look on Passenger side firewall or side panel for a black box with a red button (reset button) it has 2 wires going to it. It is called the Initeria Switch, it is about 1/2 as wide as a pack of cigarettes.

If the light on your Kinect sensor will not turn on, it might be because it's not connected properly. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Renault CAN Clip Diagnostic Interface

I'm not too familiar with an 86 302. Does it have essentially the throttle body unit to meter the gas? (looks like a computer controlled 2 bbl carb) or does it have some some funky intake system?

At any rate, check the tightness of the bolts where the throttle body unit attaches to the intake manifold. You may have to replace the gasket (if any) that resides betwixt these two pieces as well. Sound like a vacuum leak, so check the boss on the "back" of the motor where many vacuum lines are connected and make sure they are all firmly on their nipple and check the condition of the vacuum lines themselves to make sure they are not cracked or split.

good luck.

The "O" is the overdrive position for highway and normal driving.The other position is for towing and hilly highway where you need power acceleration and avoid downshifting.Once you select the drive range, it's automatic.

did you recently have your brakes changed? how is your brake fluid level? it sounds like your brakes need to be bled and brake fluid topped off

Try a new or different flasher unit located under the dash. Do both front and rear turn signals come on?

Yes, depending! You would have to get an A/C retrofit kit(basically all it is is a couple "adapters" for the old "refill" HIGH, and LOW ports)From R-12 to R-134A(Unless all of this is already done, OR you find someone with R-12 and the right equiptment!)After you get the retrofit kit, you'll need to COMPLETELY flush the system, get new PAG oil, and refrigerant, get a vacuum on your seems, introduce the PAG oil, reinstate vacuum, and add your refridgerant!If you could find someone with R12, and the equiptment for R12, it MAY be cheaper. and R12 gives a colder A/C

check for an empty or abandoned port on the intake manifold or near the throttle body

that info would have been in the owners manual tht you probably don't have, if you have ac and electric stove you will need higher amp service, that is why they ask

Here is info from a recall that might help you with the vacuum lines. 91E05

Add a vacuum ****** delay valve in the air control system as follows:
Refer to Figure 3. Install a D7AZ-12A208-A vacuum ****** delay valve (#5, white/pink) in the vacuum line connected to the air control side of the combination air bypass/air control valve using a 3" length of D0PZ-12226-B vacuum hose (5/32" ID). The pink side of the delay valve must be positioned toward the air control valve. Use two 95874-S tie straps to keep the vacuum line away from the EGR valve.

Should be up under the cowl close to the brake booster. Hope this helps! TJ

On the oil pressure issue, test with an external gauge to see if you have correct pressure when the engine is warm. On the emission light issue, pull the error codes, and investigate from those indications..... The stalling is a great clue that something is not right. REMEMBER error codes are a clue, NOT always the cause.