20 Most Recent 2000 Volkswagen Passat 4Motion - Page 7 Questions & Answers

Generic OBD Test Code P1545 (VW- V.A.G 1551 scan tool scanner code: 17953) "Throttle Position Control Malfunction"Yes, it is possible that the cut wires could be the problem with your "epc" light and lack of power. If the cut wires are the wires going to your throttle body position sensors, I would say that it is DEFINITELY the problem, as well as the cause of the code you are receiving. If they are not the wires leading to the throttle body, then I don't know what to tell you about the wires unless you can tell me what they go to.At any rate, you have a problem with your throttle body control circuits that will most likely have to be verified (diagnosed AND verified for proper operation after repair.) with a VolksWagen V.A.G. 1551 scanner.Please note that generic OBD scan tools cannot perform the functions necessary to verify the repair or to reprogram the throttle body with the Powertrain Control Module for proper operation.The manufacturer states that it is "absolutely necessary to adapt the [Throttle valve control module] to the PCM ".

this case one of the drive belt pully have damage bearing ( tensioner roller /assis,pully ,compresor pully , alternator bearing , it;s easy if you find small hose , start engine and try use hose to consentrate where is the sound come from . S.W on air con. if the sound up more .replace compresor pully (magnetic coupl.)

it:s possible if need more parts wil replace, but my diagno.this problem with trans. ATF. low level .as what i understand from you complain

have you checked your brake pads? lost of vw, not all of them, have a sensor on the brake pads that let you know that its time to change them. hope this helps

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LEGEND
1 Clip
2 Dust and Pollen Filter
3 Air intake housing
4 Defroster air outlet
5 Side window air outlet
6 Heating and A/C controls
7 Air outlets
8 Instrument panel cross member
9 Defroster duct
10 Servo motor for fresh/recirculating air door -V154-
11 Ambient temperature switch -F38-
12 Gasket
13 Evaporator water drain guide
14 Heating and A/C unit
- Heater core
- Evaporator
15 Fresh air blower -V2-
16 Fresh air blower series resistance with fuse -N24-
17 Center air outlet
18 Control panel trim
19 Center trim
20 Heating and A/C cables
21 Heater core
22 Left rear duct
23 Lower duct
24 Upper duct
25 Footwell air outlet
26 Instrument panel cross member, left side member securing bolt
27 Relay
28 A/C cut-off control module -J314-
29 Instrument panel
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I know that on the earlier model VW's there was an underhood thermostatic switch for the electric fans. This switch would keep the fans running until the underhood temperature reached a desired level. If this switch were to go bad, it would most definitely cause the problem that you are describing.

i think you will have to ask a local mechanic to have a look for you as from afar i cannot be of much help if you are not sure whats causing the noise .Now these vehicles will let the radiator fan continue after the engine is stopped and the key is removed so it could be a faulty temperature sender unit but if your not sure what the noise is then consult a local man

While not my area of expertise, I would check and see if you have a small leak that is getting on the manifold, this could cause the smell when you are not at speed and getting the smell when you stop.

No this should not have happened again so soon, the catalytic convertor is sensitive to rich fuel mixtures. In the event of an overly rich mixture the catalyst will overheat and melt. I would have the vehicle checked by a good diagnostician, paying attention to the air flow meter, coolant temperature sensor, throttle position sensor and oxygen sensors. All of these have the ability to alter the fuel mixture.

If you allready replaced converter , you need to reset your ECM , Turn on key "not running" Turn on ac then disconnect positive battery term. then replace, This will reset your ECM.

YES THATS CORRECT

P1411 = Secondary air injection system, bank 2 - insufficient flow detected.
Probable cause: Intake leak, hose(s) blocked / leaking, secondary air system valve / solenoid.

P1423 = Secondary air injection system, bank 1 - insufficient flow detected.
Probable cause: Intake leak, hose(s) blocked / leaking, secondary air system valve / solenoid.

if you look under the hood where the actuator comes through for your clutch should be small reservoir for hydraulic clutch

My car, 2000VWPassat, is doing exactly the same thing as of Wednesday April 7, 2010. The dealer has been looking at it for 6 hours and they said they have absolutely no clue what is happening. They are elevating it to an "engineer".

How to check & change oil in automatic transmission on 2000 VW Passat 4Motion:

At the bottom of the automatic gearbox (tiptronic) you will find 2 threaded plugs on below surface. First (in front of the car) is for emptying, and second is for filling up. Tightening torque is 24 Nm.



Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) checking:
1. Requirements for check:
1.1. Vehicle standing on level surface.
1.2. Transmission must not be in fail-safe mode.
1.3. Shift lever in "P" position, parking brake applied.
1.4. Engine idling.
1.5. Air Conditioner and heater OFF.
1.6. ATF temperature must not exceed 104 Fahrenheit degree (40 Celsius degree) at start of test.
1.7. Only ATF with designation ESSO LT 71 141 may be used. Do not use any lubricant additives.
1.8. Automatic Transmission Fluid ATF - part number: G 052 162 A2 (1 liter wrapping)
1.9. An ATF level check when transmission oil temperature is too low results in overfilling, when too high results in underfilling.
2. CAUTION: Too much or too little ATF will affect the operation of the transmission. The ATF level must be checked at regular intervals.
3. The oil level is correct if a slight amount of oil runs out when ATF temperature is between 86 Fahrenheit degree (30 Celsius degree) and 113 F deg (45 C deg) (caused by increase of oil level when heated). For warmer climates, 122 F deg (50 C deg).
4. Hang filled ATF reservoir VAG 1924 as high as possible.
5. Shift lever in "P" position, engine running at idle.
6. Place oil drip pan under transmission oil pan.
7. Remove ATF filler plug (at the bottom of the automatic gearbox you will find 2 threaded plugs on below surface. First (in front of the car) is for emptying, and second is for filling up.
8. With ATF temperature between 86 Fahrenheit degree (30 Celsius degree) and 113 F deg (45 C deg), for warmer climates, 122 F deg (50 C deg), a slight amount of oil will flow from filler hole when ATF level is correct.
9. If necessary drain or top off ATF to attain correct oil level. Top ATF with filler hook from VAG 1924 ATF reservoir. Insert VAG 1924 (tool) ATF reservoir filler hook into filler hole and top off until a slight amount of oil flows from filler hole.
NOTE: Fit filler hook into one of the oil deflector cap slots placed on the filler opening.
CAUTION: Do not press filler hook upward or oil deflector cap can be pushed off.
10. Reinstall ATF filler plug. Tightening torque is 24 Nm.

The automatic gearbox oil capacity (drain & refill) is 2,6 ... 3,0 litres.
The front differential oil capacity is 0,75 litres. Oil type: SAE 75 W / 90 Synthetic.
The rear differential oil capacity is 1,5 litres. Oil type: SAE 90.


Another automatic gearbox type for 2.5 TDI engine:



Front differential versions:



Rear differential versions:



Please do rate my response. Thanks!

Did you first press the clutch? If you did, and it still makes this noise, I suspect that you might need a new clutch.

You need a repair shop that does A/C repairs
Can't do that at home

you have to take the door panels off, if you attempt this becareful because there is going to be alot of wires for your power locks power windows power mirrors and some of the wiring harnesses are small an can break easily