1998 Volkswagen Passat - Page 8 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

1 fuse problem, 2 wires chek that first

petrol usually under a plastic panel in front of one of the rear wheels....

Try the airmass meter and air intake pipe,very common cause for lackof power.

How long are you cranking for,if you have allowed to run out of fuel, it needs to be primed, try pouring diesel into the fuelfilter, but I used tohave the 110bhp AFN passat and it would start after cranking for a while and then cut out, then start but possibly cut out again, then start and give it some throttle, should be fine after that.

The opening of the boot by key or remote is done via an electric motor,you may have a faulty motor or you may have water ingress through the boot handle which has corroded the terminals, this is quite common.

First you need to untight the half shaft nut, than detach all ball joints (4 of them), than you remove the hub from the half shaft, you will actually need to have a press (about 12ton min) to press the bearing out and press new one in, don't try to hammer it as you can possibly damage the hub and than you will need to buy new one (or second hand). After getting it pressed in you basically need to put it back and reverse the whole process of dismantling.

check the fuses,those fuse types are known for bad connections.

Replace the nuetral safety switch[prndl switch].

They should be under a compont called the coil pack , its 4 HT coil assy's assembled in a row that fit directly on to the spark plugs(no plug leads ) so you are looking for a rail type componant usually with a multi plug at one end and possible two fitting screws on the inlet manifold side under the plastic cowling that VW love using . Good luck

If you are 100% sure that cylinder head gasket is OK, then you must verify the oil cooler (oil is cooled by water heat changer) !

hi, do you know where i have to fit a dump valve to my 2001 passat turbo?

Hi!!

Take the measuring stick from sleeve, place a funnel into sleeve (two dollars at your favorite auto parts) and add tranny fluid to level. Do not overfill.

Click below if helpful, good luck.

If you have brake lights only replace the headlight switch. It will be the faulty item giving you this problem

Yep! you got it. Battery is shot. either that or the connections are. I would place my bets on the battery being bad. ;)

it is on the rear of the engine, on the left hand side. it leaks oil a lot and sometimes the switch goes bad too. by left hand side i mean the left of the vehicle, not your left if you are looking at the engine from the front. you replace it from up top. it is iether just below the head on the block, or on the head itself.

Sounds like you lost a ground. Look under dash for a loose wire bolted to frame.

the fuse panels are under the dash near drivers footwell or in the glove box or under the glove box if you have a cubby hole or something like this on a seperate panel to the rest of the dash the chances are it is behind this panel

it probably isnt a factory alartm it most likly a dealer installed after market alarm or one of those chip type starter locks.look under dash for a little connector looking thing with wiers going to it NOT THE TRAPAZOIDAL CONNECTOR if it has that one you will have to reconnct the start wire that was cut to allow the thing to work [add on thing has failed] or look for wires that are not in neat order with splices to various things and a plastic box usually zip tied somewere under there. repair cut during installation start wire.
if it were a factory alrm simply lock and unlock door with key try all doors in case lock cyliner switch is bad on drivers door, also remote should do it to

If you don't have MODE and SCAN buttons ( I didn't ) you can try as above but with TP and TA - they worked for me.

well, not much to go with but if it opens from the inside then you have a broken clip or rod on the outside handle of the door now if it opens on the outside then vice versa,you have a broken clip or piece off of the inside handle