The latch should be adjustable if you remove the trims around it and find the bolts - they are special fitment and require a specific tool to loosen them, or it has worn to the point it needs replacing.
VW transmissions are seal and only take a special type of transmission fluid. Need to buy the correct type of fluid from your local VW dealer.
As for this being your problem, might want to verify first by checking to see if you have any codes in the transmission control module or the engine control module.
Hi before you do an oil change try seafoam in the engine oil. this can sometimes fix the problems you are having, I used seafoam in engine oil and fuel and breather line and ran engine for 100 miles, but don't run hard, and its cleaned all the sump and oil veins in the engine, as checked with a scope looking though the oil sump plug. it did a really good job, my engine is a bit older than yours 1994. oil sensor is at the bottom of the engine on the sump. pressure sensor is above the oil filter it has a single wire conection
Improper fuel/air mixture, possibly plugged up air filter?
You have 2 out of 3 of the needed components for that motor to run, and assuming your timing is correct and you have compression, it could be an air intake issue.
enter your vehicle info . year , make , model and engine . Under system click on electrical distribution , then under subsystem click on relay .Then click search ,two blue links will pop up . Click on the top one . Good luck ,hope this helps and GOD bless .
I had a tuner go over the wiring. He found a loose ground wire and grounded it properly. The transmission has been shifting correctly ever since!!! It felt like a mechanical problem, and acted like a mechanical problem, but it was just a loose ground wire.
Let this be a heads up on VW transmissions!
Thankfully it was only a loose ground wire and not a $5,000 trany!!
No power? Your motor sensors are getting conflicting signals, maybe just an oxygen sensor or EGR valve cleaning and some highway miles to settle it in will fix it. Maybe you should find someone with an ODB-II reader (bluetooth, let's say; but it plugs in where those insurance co. readers go) and you pair it with a cellphone to read it (don't check it while drivin', please; the data keeps fine.) Then you'll get all kinds of reasons it's not feeling supercharged from the get-go and can draw a few to fix at a time. Maybe you hit the hypermiling button and it's giving you fixed power to work with...
Clean the air filter? What, not bike weather yet? It has spring fever. I wonder how you're measuring these things, but you should try for a concordance from the ODB II port (the computer) and see what it thinks. I'm guessing there is a bad spark wire; if one goes over 40 ohms in operation (that is, lots of current, so be safe) it might be failed out by the computer. It might be failing to pull a vacuum because of a leak in that system. Does it turn smoothly and easily with plugs disconnected?
There may be a fuse for the ignition system, but not specificly the Starter itself. Do you hear a "click" when you turn the key? If not
are you sure you have a good battery? Do other electric devices work? If you hear a click when turning to start and a good battery, You have starter solenoid problems. Is this a diesel? Could be the Starter motor Brushes. While somewhat hazardous, can you jump the car and get it started? Autoparts stores will help check battery and other electrical problems if you want to do it yourself. Otherwise you need dealer or reputable repair shop. If diesel engine (and fuel) I'd go to the dealer.
You may need to drive the car back to where you bought the battery. You may have a faulty battery or faulty alternator. When the car is running it should be charging from about 13.8amps and above. If the battery is completely depleted, a jump pack will not be able to jump start the vehicle.