Top 20 1998 Volkswagen Jetta Questions & Answers

In the link https://www.google.com/search?q=1998+VW+Jetta+fuel+pump+relay+location ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved to model category. 1992 to 1999 are all the same

Volkswagen Vento / Jetta (A3) (1992-1999) fuses and relays

https://fuse-box.info > volkswagen > volkswagen-vento... Here you will find fuse box diagrams of Volkswagen Vento 1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 and 1999, get information about the location of the fuse ...

98 Jetta Fuse panel diagram - TDIClub Forums

https://forums.tdiclub.com > ... > TDI 101 Nov 27, 2007 - Can anyone please help me obtain a fuse panel diagram for 98 Jetta(A3)? ... 98 Jetta TDI have no power to fuse 18 says it controls the fuel ...

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check your grounds the wires are all colored brown

Very likely a connection. is the ac control switch on the driver door? Has a wire rubbed through its outer casing against something & grounding ? If it was a blown fuse I don’t believe it woul function at all

Hello, Fuel - Spark - Compression If you have a book there are testing practices within the book for 'priming the fuel system', using a volt-meter (ohms) to check the coil (in tolerance - tolerance specs), and compression testing. With that said a dirty TPS sensor could also be a cause - bypass the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) by holding down the gas pedal to the floor and starting the vehicle. If the vechile starts get some electrical cleaning spray and clean the TPS electrical connection and chase it with compressed air (quick-dry -- compressed air works as a cleaning aid too). Could also be a main computer problem if you have had 'different' problems occuring with the vehicle (stalling, black smoke, won't start, etc.) I hope this helps

Check your brakes, they might be releasing late

Look in your owners manual for the fuse number and it's location.

strange coincidence, diesel or petrol? did you wash the engine bay? so many possibilities you should take it to your local mechanic

The air plate is not shutting off the air to the intake manifold or you are getting oil into the intake. Check the flap on the end of the intake where the black boot connects to it. You could have a vacuum leak or electronic issue not sur with out looking at it.

You need to take to VW dealer and they will give you a free estimate.

It has a plastic Ratchet style gear at the pedal end of the cable that has to be released. This gear automatically adjust the clutch when the pedal is pressed. Never put a jack against a clutch arm. You will probably have to disengage the cable to reset the ratchet gear. Don't strip the teeth on the gear

Before you began replacing components, did you check for engine codes or the transmission fluid level ? Who determined to replace the two parts that you mention ?

If you have a multimeter you can go to the underside of the master panel in the drivers door and independently check the switches for voltage or with no power to the switch assembly check for continuity. Good place to start. If you get continuity to through the switch then you need to check power to the window actuators in the doors.

I would check for spark on the ignition coil and the spark plug. If no spark, check the power and signal to the ignition coil. The ignition coil large wires are 12volts power and the other three is a signal to electronic firing circuit from ECM. Testing the power is easy, for testing for trigger signal, use a 12v LED test light. 12 Volts test: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/pulga1952/VW/Ignitioncoil.jpg Signal test: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/pulga1952/VW/Ignitioncoilharness.jpg

Check the exhaust system.

Check intake manifold for blockage.

You could try momentarily releasing the bleed nipple. If that frees the brake it is a hydraulic problem causing it to bind. You might have assembled wrong and should take a look at the repair manual or compare with the other side but most commonly such problems are caused by the handbrake cable or levers not fully returning or being adjusted to tightly. When working on a drum brake the cable adjustment should be fully released before finally fitting the drum and then the brake pedal should be pressed hard several times and then the cable readjusted and the brake checked for correct operation before fitting the wheel. Any problems then are obvious before it goes anywhere near the road.

Do you have a check engine light on? Have you scanned for fault codes?

Is your power steering reservoir mounted or part of the pump ?
If yes, there should be a pulley that has a belt around it. This belt is also attached to your engine crankshaft pulley.