20 Most Recent 1998 Volkswagen Jetta - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Look in your owners manual for the fuse number and it's location.

It has a plastic Ratchet style gear at the pedal end of the cable that has to be released. This gear automatically adjust the clutch when the pedal is pressed. Never put a jack against a clutch arm. You will probably have to disengage the cable to reset the ratchet gear. Don't strip the teeth on the gear

Before you began replacing components, did you check for engine codes or the transmission fluid level ? Who determined to replace the two parts that you mention ?

You need to take to VW dealer and they will give you a free estimate.

If you have a multimeter you can go to the underside of the master panel in the drivers door and independently check the switches for voltage or with no power to the switch assembly check for continuity. Good place to start. If you get continuity to through the switch then you need to check power to the window actuators in the doors.

You could try momentarily releasing the bleed nipple. If that frees the brake it is a hydraulic problem causing it to bind. You might have assembled wrong and should take a look at the repair manual or compare with the other side but most commonly such problems are caused by the handbrake cable or levers not fully returning or being adjusted to tightly. When working on a drum brake the cable adjustment should be fully released before finally fitting the drum and then the brake pedal should be pressed hard several times and then the cable readjusted and the brake checked for correct operation before fitting the wheel. Any problems then are obvious before it goes anywhere near the road.

I would check for spark on the ignition coil and the spark plug. If no spark, check the power and signal to the ignition coil. The ignition coil large wires are 12volts power and the other three is a signal to electronic firing circuit from ECM. Testing the power is easy, for testing for trigger signal, use a 12v LED test light. 12 Volts test: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/pulga1952/VW/Ignitioncoil.jpg Signal test: http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd236/pulga1952/VW/Ignitioncoilharness.jpg

https://www.google.com/search?q=Engine+diagram+92+geo+storm+gsi&biw=1362&bih=650&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjYzZrkhpjQAhWBfCYKHd5eCVMQsAQIGg#tbm=isch&q=Where+is+fuse+for+air+bag+98+vw+jetta Hope this helps

Is your power steering reservoir mounted or part of the pump ?
If yes, there should be a pulley that has a belt around it. This belt is also attached to your engine crankshaft pulley.

Do you have a check engine light on? Have you scanned for fault codes?

Take this car to a certified/qualified repair technician immediately!You have some rather serious electrical faults happening and as a professional fire fighter, I can't tell you how many 1000's of vehicles burst into flames every year because of these types of problems. This is NOT a self fixer, it needs a professional.

they will only fit in there one or two ways just match em up to there spot on the board, most of them are the same relay anyway -jeff

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (P1582 TO P1613) DTC, DTC text, Corrective action. SAE, VAG, P1582, 17990, Idle Adaptation at Limit.

Check intake for leaks, and or loose vaccum hoses.

Have you chaged the battery on the remote. And also do you have a valet button under the dash somewhere if you push it for about 15-30 sec. it should reset the alarm. if it fails you might need a whole new alarm system.

Unfortunately there is no way that I know of to bypass the immobilizer system. I was a vw tech for 30 years. I worked on immobilizers weekly.

the only thing i can point to is the obvious: the motor may have seen its better days... depending on how much you used it, and if you used your wipers to shovel snow off in the morning. so the brushes on the motor may be gone and causing the sort. next thing up is your relays, i wouldnt worry about the cables, if they arent being moved around. if you get to the motor (i am not pro electrician) but i would try direct 12v on the motor and if it works it works, if it sparks bad and not working then you found the problem. another way to test it before you put 12v on it is to get a multimeter and see if there is a resistance (closed circuit- the one that makes "beeeeep" noise if - and + of the multimeter are touching)

on the side of the starter just follow the big wire from plus side of battery it leads right too it !!!

if pinching the fuel return line gives an improvement that there is not enough pressure at the injectors. This points to a fuel pressure regulator problem. Some are vacuum controlled so check that area first. Others may be electronic controlled so run fault codes to see if a fault has been recorded.