1994 Mazda MPV - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Remove the rocker arm, set to TDC and instal again.

Try lubing the channel the window rides in (sides) with paraffin or candle wax. Motors do get weak over time.

remove the solenoid and manually unlock the door. Sounds like the solenoid is jammed.

https://www.mazdabg.com/ftp-uploads/Mazda/--Repair%20Instructions--/Mazda%20MPV%20Pickup%20Navajo/chiltonimages/8968/89685g01L.gif

There is a fairly simple test to see if the starter is bad. You should have the same battery voltage at the starter on the larger cable that is bolted to the larger stud. You should also see battery voltage at the smaller wire at the starter with the key in the crank position. If these both check out than the starter is bad. You can also monitor battery voltage while you try to crank. If battery voltage hold steady than the battery is probably good. You can also turn on the headlights and see if they dim. If battery voltage drops than the battery might be the culprit. Most auto parts stores can check the battery and they typically do not charge for this service. I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

buy a repair manual

You can get one at O'Reiley's ($3.99) Littelfuse Blister Pack PAL Fuse Littelfuse Blister Pack PAL Fuse http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/LIT3/PAL030BP/01552.oap?year=1994&make=Mazda&model=MPV&vi=1191169&ck=Search_01552_1191169_1902&pt=01552&ppt=C0330

There is a central component called a body computer among other names. I would think this would cause all of the problems that you are describing.

It is an automatic tensioner system that uses hydraulic fluid pressure to maintain the correct tension on the drive belt. You cant press it back inside with any hand tool, the pressure is just too great. It can be reset by placing it into a bench vise (A large one!) and slowly pressing the pin back into the cylinder till an alignment hole in the push pin aligns with one on the main cylinder. then insert a holding pin (Available at all auto parts houses, cheap too) through the housing, center pin and out the other side of the housing. Release it from the vice and you are ready to reinstall. It will be the pulley directly below the firewall side camshaft pulley, and is secured with two bolts 12mm heads.

double posted. backup on and read the answers.

read the operators guide yet? sure lost. the dip stick , note the large dip tube, that also serves as filler pipe. do not fill it like the engine, or you will cause the ATF to foam up and wreck the tranny. read the operators guide, for correct way. its done hot. cycle gears. the in park ceck it. running. many cars use this method, be sure to get your book and your method. eg. a suzuki. (read this for typical flavor) http://www.fixkick.com/All-Pdfs/Other-Manuals/operators_guide-95/ATF-fill-2pages.pdf keep in mind we dont know what engine is in your car or tranny they are matched, so... cant look that up.

fuel level sending unit

the best way , is to pass the scanner for to detect what sensor is faulty. Any problem can be happen. By that reason will be great idea to get the diagnostic inmediately.God bless you

Here's a link to a code.

Hello! Every engine requires four basic ingredients to start: sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So any time an engine fails to start, you can assume it lacks one of these four essential ingredients. But which one?
To find you, you need to analyze the situation. If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. Has the starter been acting up? (unusual noises, slow cranking, etc.). Is this the first time the engine has failed to crank or start, or has it happened before? Have the starter, battery or battery cables been replaced recently? Might be a defective part. Has the battery been running down? Might be a charging problem. Have there been any other electrical problems? The answers to these questions should shed some light on what might be causing the problem.
If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression. Was it running fine but quit suddenly? The most likely causes here would be a failed fuel pump, ignition module or broken overhead cam timing belt. ..you may also have an electrical grounding problem, check all your wiring and also your fuses and relay. Some fuses or relay may look good but without testing it we can;t be 100% sure. Another best way to know is to use a scanner Code, this diagnostic procedure will tell you the code problem on yor car. you can borrow to someone or can purchase it to any car parts ratailer and sales person, what year of your car. I believe from the year 1996 and below are scanner OBD1. best of luck..


Glad to help.
Ginskie.

Only on a fordDo you not hear the fuel pump come on?Do you have spark or injector pulse when cranking?

Not sure what you are describing as the sound, but it could be a faulty starter. Sometimes the brushes in the starter stick and you have to "bump" the starter to get them to make contact.A mechanic would check for voltage at the starter.

Torque Specs : Intake manifold bolts...72-105 in/lbs or 6-9 ft/lbs EGR valve bolts........165-225 in/lbs or 14-19 ft/lbs Remaining little bolts for brackets, etc......72-95 in/lbs or 6-8 ft/lbs

Dizzy sensor, no such thing.