1991 Mazda B-Series - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

https://youtu.be/s34ZS2885Kk here a video that should he

Sounds like the litthe black box under the rotor button has failed. Where you sprayed the wd40. Its a position sensor to tell the cap when to fire. Used to be common on chevy but id bet thats where you need to be. Take off the cap pull the rotor and there will be two small screws golding it in. Pop it out and replace it. Could be wiring too but seing it wasnt evenmivung when it happened id bat not.

The brake light bulbs could be at fault....They are designed to work with the brake pedal and the night running lights....The bulbs work as a two way light....This means they have 2 small wires inside the bulb...Some bulbs only have one wire but they only serve one purpose...In cases like that the bulbs are at fault normally or you have a bad wiring issue ...,there is also a brake light switch connected to the brake pedal but if your brake lights work it should be ok..but don't rule it out...anything is possible with older vehicles...Only one wire inside the bulb can burn out and cause one light not to work but the other light will work because the bulb still has one of the wires connected inside...One 1157 bulb works 2 lights,,,the brake light and the running light....It is common for them to blow only half way leaving the other light working ....Look at the difference between a 1156 bulb and a 1157 bulb and you will see what I am trying to describe..An 1156 is for only a one way light because it only has one wire....look at the difference between the two.....If you have never replaced them change them anyway...Sometimes you can't tell when they are blown....Normally the bulbs cause the problem you are having....Thanks

Take 2 people to do this. 1 person stays in the car and pumps the brakes then holds the pedal down. Starting at the P.R. tire, open the bleeder valve, once all the liquid and possible air stops coming out close the valve and have the other person pump the brakes and hold the pedal down again. Remember to keep the brake fluid filled up and do the brakes in this order: P.R., D.R., P.F., and finally D.F. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/steven_a67ead41eb5fc62a

The master cylinder and the wheel bearings are completely un realated parts. The first thing to check is the brake fluid level. If it's full and you have zero braking and zero pedal then you may well have a dead m/c. If you find an empty reservior, fill it and then figure out where it went. A leak anywhere will have the same result, no fluid, no brakes. The ABS issue may or may not be related but you need to solve the no pedal problem first.

You would need to know if the coil has voltage and a ground signal from the module. Problem could be in the stator in the distributor if equipped, or the crank sensor if it is DIS.

So you know the fuel pump would have nothing to do with the plugs getting spark, right ?You said the coil tested good, is it getting voltage from the key switch and a ground signal from the distributor ?

Did you change the fuel filter? If so what for fuel pressure is it getting

Take a screwdriver and poke out the light. Or get an OBDII reader, see what the problem is, fix it, then cancel the codes to turn off the light. Either method works.

could be a few thing try the thermastate first

This is an indication of a bad blower motor resistor. Replacing this should fix your issue.

What motor....L 4-218cc 2.2L 2200 2-bbl
L4-218cc 2.2L 2200 MFI or L4-2606cc 2.6L SOHC ?????

Not a solution but i am going through the exact same nightmare and same symptoms with my 1991 mazda b2200. I've apwnt over two grand to have my rebuilt TWICE and my alternator replaced and still does the same thing just starts only to die 2 seconds or so later unless i let it warm up to its max but will still die when taking turns and stopping at lights.

can be the temp. censer

sounds like ignition control module.

Check the EGR valve..

EGR valve is bolted to the manifold on passenger side, just underneath the carburetor. There are three hex head screws, requires 10mm socket.

thats the A.I.R. system check valves.

if the alarm/immobiliser could be bypassed the thieves would have it away in no time....you will have to buy a new remote and have it coded to the car.....

YES!!, you had it tuned, it runs good, but gas mileage dropped, and check engine light is on,it sounds like the o2 sensors are slow or even dead, i would replace them for sure and that just might solve all your problems,good luck, hope this helps.

The only thing to do is get a diagram from the MAZDA dealer parts dept. "A few parts fell out" is way to vague to help you.